Via the Mittelgrat | Alpinism | Piz Sardona / Surenstock | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Via the Mittelgrat (Normal route) Piz Sardona / Surenstock 3056 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    2–3:30 h, 900 m
  • Descent
    1:30–2 h, 900 m

Normal route from the Sardonahütte, in summer certainly the most popular. The level of snowmelt determines the best route: When the firn snow on the upper, triangular glacier, thins out to reveal an ice slope, it is better to join the Mittelgrat as early as possible. The route through the rock is marked in the lower part with cairns and secured in the upper part with a fixed rope.

Route description

Sardonahütte - Sardonagletscher

From the Sardonahütte (2159 m) the path leads southwest across meadows to P. 2328 (turnoff to the Trinser Furgga). Take the steep right-hand path up to the Sardon glacier.

Sardonagletscher - Mittelgrat - Piz Sardona

When the triangular snowfield is well established, you may climb from the Sardonagletscher almost to its top, before moving left onto the rock near the striking yellow band. Traverse the scree-covered rock ramp leading to the "Mittelgrat", then follow this ridge on its northern side (II). After the flatter upper part of the ridge you reach an barren terrace. Pass through a shallow depression and climb northwards on well-established tracks to the summit.

Alpine hike to Piz Segnas

Alternative/ additional summits: From the summit of Piz Sardona you can reverse past the Mittelgrat on good tracks to the Surenjoch (P. 2943) and on to the beautiful humpback of the fore-summit (P. 3038). Traverse another scree ridge to gain the slightly higher summit of Piz Segnas, about 1 ½ hours back and forth.

Descent

Down the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Difficulty

The route can pass as a tough T6 hiking route.

Waypoints

Surenjoch (2942 m)

Auf der Variante zum Piz Segnas.

Piz Segnas (3099 m)

Alternative destination.

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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