From the station Klein Matterhorn via the Southwest Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the station Klein Matterhorn via the Southwest Ridge (Normal route) Pollux 4090 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3a
  • Ascent
    3:30–4 h, 426 m
  • Descent
    212 m

This is a short and easy route in good conditions, it can also be used as a quick descent. However, there is often blank ice, which greatly increases the difficulties. Good combined with a descent to Rifugio Guide d'Ayas.

Route description

Station Klein Matterhorn - Breithornpass
From the station Klein Matterhorn (3817 m) head initially SSE and then eastwards to P. 3824 of Breithornpass.
Breithornpass - Pollux
From the Breithorn Pass (P. 3824) drop down a little, then contour round on the southern flanks of the mountain, beneath P. 3831 and along the 3700 m contour line until you reach the Schwarztor, 1½ hrs. On this traverse pay attention to the large, often poorly covered crevasses (most in the direction of travel). Tracks lead (nearly always) up, first on the left, then on the right-hand side of the SW ridge. Further on, avoid a small tower system, taking a short detour to the right before re-joining the ridge via a slab. Continue following tracks to reach the foot of a large, vertical, red tower. To this one's left (western) side you'll find another slab, adorned with fixed ropes, which leads to a corner. The corner (grade 3a) takes you once more onto ridge behind the tower. From here more slabs (chains, fixed rope) lead out onto to the summit ridge. Now frolic safely up the snow ridge and reach the summit (4090 m) easy, 1½ hours.
Descent
Down the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Klein Matterhorn, Bergstation (3817 m)

Informationen zur Seilbahn Zermatt–Klein Matterhorn: www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten

Waypoints
History

Jules Jacot with the mountain guides Josef-Marie Perren and Peter Taugwalder, 1. August 1864.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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