From the Rif. Oriondé the path leads northwest past a small lake (2808 m) to a short rocky step called the Grand Escalier du Lion. The path cuts easily through this and up to the Croce di Carrel (2920 m). Continue northeast (right) of the cross on tracks through the scree. You will come to a small snow field with (usually) an avalanche cone. Climb on its western side and then traverse left through the wall using a diagonally rising couloir. From the talus-strewn plateau at its exit, a trail leads on up the stepped rocky ridge to reach the steep main snowfield (between P. 3319 and P. 3489). Traverse up and right at the bottom of the snowfield. (Rockfall is common on this route, esp. from the top of the diagonal couloir, to the end of the traverse under the firn) Then over an easy rock rib on the E-edge of the Firn. Moving high above the Gh. Superiore del Cervino (glacier), pass rightwards under the summit cap of Testa del Leone (the whole route ahead, up to the Pic Tyndall should now be visible). Traverse almost horizontally to the right through the E-wall of the Testa del Leone (rockfall) on debris, steep snow couloirs and ledges that lead over to the Colle del Leone (3580 m), 2½ hours. Higher up, directly under a rock wall, you will find some bolts.

From the Colle del Leone the Liongrat (or Arête du Lion) begins. Walk along the ridge on the south side; a scree and firn slope lead to steep slabs and the first fixed ropes. Climb diagonally to the right, keeping close to the ridge (2a, difficult in the snow). Smooth, slightly overhanging steps lead to the Plaque Rope (which is not very steep, but often snowy and icy). Via another, easy rock step you reach the foot of an open, vertical corner about 12 m in height, called La Cheminée. A fixed rope facilitates the arduous climb, a belay stance is available at half height, and the top out is also well secured. Now follow the stepped, slabby ridge to the Rif. Carrel (3829 m) .

Approach shortened by 1½ hrs.