Änzian | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Slab Especially Beautiful route

Änzian Rigi Hochflue 1698 m

  • Difficulty
    5c+ (5a)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    4 P / 1:30–2 h, 100 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SE / Limestone
  • Altitude start
    1400 m

Delightful climbing on the best, strongly eroded and lavishly grippy limestone. Technical. Mostly grade 4 climbing. The closely bolted, short crux section after the small steep wall in the 3rd pitch can be mastered by cowboy tactics: lasso the piton with a sling and haul your ass up (A0). If climbed free, however, emotional control is more important than strength. The slowly fading blue markings help with route finding, for now.

Route description

Approach.
Änzian
See topo.

Additional information

Protection
Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope
45m
Quick draws
8
Stoppers
-
Friends
-
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
++
Abseiling possible
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

4a-4c (short crux section is A0, or climbed free at 5a/7a ... its personal)

Rock Type / Quality

Limestone.

Protection / Material

Bolts aplenty. Can also weigh yourself down with slings and cams to look more serious.

Descent

Fastest on foot following fixed chains down a gully to the east.

Otherwise: 3 x abseils. See topo. (2 x 50 m ropes!)

History

FA by L. Gribi, T. Ulrich, J. Zemp, 1984–88; re-equipped by M. Anderes, A. Märchy, 2002.

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