From the Glecksteinhütte over the Rosenegg | Alpinism

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From the Glecksteinhütte over the Rosenegg

From the Glecksteinhütte over the Rosenegg (Normal route) Rosenhorn 3688 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

5–6 h, 1460 m
Descent

100 m

From the Glecksteinhütte, the Rosenhorn is the easiest summit of the Wetterhorn group to reach and is a popular tour. There are two paths leading from the hut over the Beesibärgli (the large grassy and rocky slopes southwest of the hut) to the Upper Grindelwald glacier: the "new" path from 1986 which was created at that time because of the risk of ice on the "old" way by the hut warden Hans Kaufmann, and the "old" way, which for a few years now due to retreat of the glacier is once again walkable and marked. There are also two options in crossing the Upper Grindelwald Glacier: Less frequented and only recommended with sufficient snow, the second option passes through the glacier basin at the foot of the Lauteraar saddle. Should conditions permit, an ascent via this route and a descent on today's normal route gives a more varied tour. The Rosenhorn is a great peak to climb during a hut change from the Glecksteinhütte to the Dossenhütte or the Gaulihütte.

The normal route from the end of the Beesibärgli trail to the Rosenhorn. © Bomio Marco

View over the glacial plateau south-west of the Rosenhorn that must be crossed © Bomio Marco

Ascending towards the Rosenegg © Bomio Marco

The easy summit ridge from the pre summit (3643 m) to the Rosenhorn (3689 m) © Bomio Marco

Route description

Glecksteinhütte (hut) to the Oberer Grindelwaldgletscher (glacier) P. 2840

A few meters above the Gleckstein hut (2316 m) follow a blue-white marked footpath which contours to the right (southwest). After 20 to 30 mins, always slightly descending, you will reach a distinctive gorge whose crossing is facilitated by wire ropes and artificial steps (about 2200 m, the lowest point of the way). Continue over partially grassy moraine debris and one high rock step (wire rope) up to a ridge, about 1 hour from the hut. From there, continue up the Beesibärgli until the path branches off. Now follow the white trail north of P. 2840 to the Upper Grindelwald Glacier.

Oberer Grindelwaldgletscher (glacier) (nördlich P. 2840) to P 3644 (Fore-summit des Rosenhorns)

Head in a north-northeast direction on the glacier up to about 3300 m. Now bare right and pass above the rocky island of P. 3339 to the north, and on into the large glacial depression below the Rosenhorn's SW flank. Continue through this hollow in a generally easterly direction towards the Rosenegg (3455 m), but arc north-northeast again before you reach it and climb the steeper snow slope to the Rosenhorn's fore-summit at 3644 m.

Fore-summit (P. 3644 m) to Rosenhorn 3689m

Follow the ridge directly without much difficulty to the main summit.

Additional information

Departure point

Glecksteinhütte SAC (2316 m)

Waypoints

Rosenegg (3455 m)

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.