Eiger-Rotstock via ferrata. | Via ferrata

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- Eiger-Rotstock via ferrata.
Eiger-Rotstock via ferrata.

Eiger-Rotstock via ferrata. Rotstock (Eiger, BE) 2662 m

Difficulty

K2, T4+
Ascent

1:15 h, 260 m
Mountain Experience

3 / 4
Power

1 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

1 / 4

From 1899 to 1903 there was a secure path set into the far right-hand corner of the Eiger North Face. Ladies in wide skirts and men with straw hats were able to climb from the former station Rotstock, the first stop of the train in the 7 km long tunnel through the Eiger and Mönch to the Jungfraujoch, on a via ferrata up to the Rotstock (2663 m). When the Eigerwand station went into operation, the installations on the Rotstock were abandoned. In 1997 this forgotten tourist path was rediscovered, and three years later, Grindelwald mountain guides, on behalf of the Jungfrau Railway, installed aluminium ladders and tensioned wire ropes in the lower, unknown section between the cliff base and the former Rotstock station. In the upper, previously travelled part through the gorge between the Eiger-West ridge and the Rotstock, the old path has also been secured with new cables and steps. The last part, from the Rotstock saddle to the summit of the Rotstock was also equipped with ropes, as was the descent to the Eiger glacier station. To put it in a nutshell: Eiger atmosphere, just on a safe path.

Rotstock, with the Eiger behind. © Daniel Anker

Atop the Rotstock, bright shines the sun. © Daniel Anker

Strong rusty ladder leading to the Rotstock saddle. © Daniel Anker

Route description

Approach

Head under the chairlift, past the massive new tunnels of the V-cableway, and head along the Eiger Trail. From P.2285, climb up along the rounded ridge to the base of the via ferrata. The first iron hardware, at about 2400m altitude, soon becomes visible.

Eiger-Rotstock via ferrata.

The route over the new & old via ferrata is clear; only the easy walking sections are marked with cairns. In the first, modern part below the former Rotstock station (approx. 2520 m) there are a few iron ladders. In the second, older part, most of the steps have been hewn out of the limestone. After crossing back over the gully, a ladder awaits again, and soon you'll be standing on the Rotstock saddle (approx. 2640 m, no name on the map). From there you can easily climb up the last few metres to the slabby top of the Rotstock (2662 m, summit cross and book).

Descent Kleiner Klettersteig to Leukerbad

Nicely down the treacherous slabs covered in scree.

Additional information

Character: The 260-meter via ferrata on the Rotstock is a route for via ferrata climbers and experienced, vertigo-free mountain hikers (with the necessary equipment). The crux is a vertical step immediately after the start, as well as the sometimes unsecrured descent over slabs on the south side. In the event of snow, heavy rain or verglas, an on-site visit is strongly discouraged. As with everywhere else on the Eiger, rockfalls cannot be ruled out. Via ferrata sets can be rented in Grindelwald and Wengen. Bivouac material is not necessary (I should hope not).

Time: Total time 2¾ hours, approach ¾ hours, via ferrata 1¼ hours, descent ¾ hours

Signalisation: Odd markings

Descent: From the Rotstock saddle, descend SW over slabs and scree, and scree-covered slabs (cairns and fixed ropes in places) to reach the Eigergletscher station.