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- Difficulty
- 6a (5c)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 18 P / 5–8 h, 500 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- S / Granite
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- Altitude start
- 2580 m
The South Ridge of the Salbitschijen - a tremendous feat at the time of the first ascent in 1935 - is considered the most beautiful granite ridge in Switzerland. Its hard to dispute that! As well as perfect rock; the beautiful line, sustained difficulty and ambience of the climbing make this tour a 'must' for every climber out there. The fine summit needle is also utterly unique. However, do not underestimate the length and seriousness of this tour, which requires the full range of alpine rock skills and rope management to complete in good time. All escape routes are equally challenging.
Additional information
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Protection
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Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
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Rope
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2x50m
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Quick draws
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10
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Stoppers
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✔
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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+
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Time
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The time can vary greatly depending on personal skill, a team's rope work, ability to place protection where necessary, other parties ahead etc. Best to start early as.
- Difficulty
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The difficulties are more or less sustained, though there is one stand-out crux.
- Protection / Material
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The existing protections have quite large distances; they can be supplemented with Rocks and a set of Friends (0.5-3).
- Descent
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There are some possible escape routes along the ridge, including just after the Zahn (2728 m), down the Ruska route (the top stance is roughly halfway along the pitch before the crux) or at the Zwillingsturm (2920 m). Do not take these escape lightly; their paths are not always obvious.
When descending from the summit, keep to the right most path through the gully (looking down). Do not walk over the old snow; there is a significant risk of breaking through into the torrent below.
- History
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Alfred Amstad, Otto Amstad, Guido Masetto, 1935 / 2003
