Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Rothornhütte SAC (SSW-Ridge) (Normal route) Schalihorn 3975 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    3–3:30 h, 1050 m
  • Descent
    250 m

This is the normal route from the Rothorn Hut. As an independent summit it gives a moderately hard and quite attractive tour, but it is usually undertaken as an approach to the Schaljochbiwak.

Route description

Rothornhütte - Oberes Aeschhorn

From the Rothornhütte (3197 m) start out right (E) of the Eseltschuggen (3360 m) and follow screes up onto the Rothorngletscher, which you cross in a northeast direction. The initially steep, later gentle slopes of this glacier end abruptly on the Unter Äschjoch (saddle) at 3551 m, 1 hour. From the saddle, climb over the firn and rocks of the SE ridge to gain the Ober Äschhorns (3668 m), ¼ hrs.

Oberes Aeschhorn - Hohlichtpass

From there you descend on the SW ridge over Firn and then rock to Ober Äschjoch (3621 m), or directly west down the firn flank on the the upper plateau of the Hohlichtgletschers. (If coming from the Ober Äschjoch there is a large bergschrund to overcome). Keep left (W) on the plateau to bypass a zone of wide crevasses (at about 3420 m). Then arc slowly round beneath the Zinalrothorn to the foot of the Col de Moming. Beneath the mighty seracs in this area move swiftly to the right (NE) at about 3500 m, then climb up and right (E) of the south-east rocks of Pointe Nord de Moming. Continue north via gentle firn slopes until you reach the Hohlichtpass (3734 m), 1 ½ hours.

Hohlichtpass - Schalihorn

From the pass, climb up the steeper firn of the SSW-Ridge, and onto a final easy rock section to reach the south summit of Schalihorn (3974 m), ½ hrs.

Descents

Follow the route of ascent

Additional information

Departure point
Time

Der Durchgang über die Bergschründe erfordert oft zusätzlichen Zeitaufwand.

Difficulty

Die Verhältnisse auf dem Rothorn- und Hohlichtgletscher wechseln schnell.

Waypoints
History

Thomas Middlemore with mountain guides Johannes Jaun und Christian Lauener, 20. July 1873.

Authors

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

Hermann Biner

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