Traverse of the southern-most Monte Rosa summit, from Giordanispétz to Signalkuppe | Alpinism | Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Traverse of the southern-most Monte Rosa summit, from Giordanispétz to Signalkuppe (Normal route) Signalkuppe / Punta Gnifetti 4553 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    6–7 h, 1328 m
  • Descent
    397 m

A worthwhile crossing in a high alpine environment. Four-thousanders every hour! As the ascent and descent is often identical, you can add or omit summits as you please. The tour can also be started from the Rifugio Mantova. Among mountain climbers the tour is disrespectfully called the "Spaghetti Route".

Route description

Rifugio Gnifetti - Giordanispétz - Vincentpiramid - Vincentjoch

From Rifugio Ghifetti (3625 m) climb NE to around 3800 m, where you meet the rocky SSW rib of the Vincentpiramid. Climb up this ridge until a debris belt leads easily rightwards onto the Endregletscher. Cross diagonally to reach the Giordanispétz (4046 m), 2 hrs. Now follow the firn ridge WNW in the direction of the Vincentpiramid until the ridge presents a rocky tower. Bypass this on the right and regain the ridge over brittle rocks. Now follow the ridge (grade 2) to summit the Vincentpiramid (4215 m), 1 hr. Cross the snowy summit cap and descend N down to the Vincentjoch (4087 m

Vincentjoch - Balmenhorn - Corno Nero - Ludwigshöhe - Parrotspitze - Capanna Regina Margherita

The Balmenhorn (Bivacco Giordano, 4167 m) can be reached from the Vincentjoch in ½ hour. From the Balmenhorn arc northwards through to east to gain the Zurbriggenjoch (ca. 4279 m). From here, a short, steep firn slope and some easy climbing leads to Corno Nero / Schwarzhorn (4321 m), 1 hour. Return to the Zurbriggenjoch and climb the opposite firn slope to 'nab' the Ludwigshöhe (4342 m), ½ hour. From Ludwigshöhe descend the north-facing slope to the Piodejoch (4284 m). Follow the border to P. 4339 m and then turn east over the ridge to Parrotspitze (4434 m), 1 hr. Once more down to reach the Seserjoch (4299 m). Now using pure determination, will power or self-bribary, climb the final slope to reach the Rifugio Regina Margherita and the summit of Signalpuppe / Punta Gnifetti (4554 m), 1½ hours.

Variant: Rif. Gnifetti - Vincentjoch (4087 m)

If you want to leave out the Giordanispétz and Vincentpiramide, you can climb directly from the Rif. Gnifetti over the Lys glacier to Vincentjoch (4087 m). This will shorten the long day by 2 hours.

Additional information

Departure point
End point
Time

Man kann Giordanispétz und Vincentpiramid auch rechts liegen lassen und vom Rif. Gnifetti über den Lysgletscher direkt zum Balmenhorn steigen (minus 2 Std.).

Waypoints

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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