Gauablickhöhle via ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Gauablickhöhle via ferrata Sulzfluh 2817 m

  • Difficulty
    K3, T4
  • Ascent
    1:30 h
  • Mountain Experience
    3 / 4
  • Power
    3 / 4
  • Endurance
    3 / 4
  • Psyche
    3 / 4

Drusenfluh–Sulzfluh–Schijenflue: famous climbing peaks with great, steep, south-facing rock. A site for real rock climbers, no question. But since 2005, even those who need a little help for their mountain venture (such as wire cables, ladders and iron steps) can experience the steep wall feeling of Rätikon: on the Bündner Sulzfluh via ferrata. This can be described as an absolute cliff route, logical in its course, adapted to the terrain, optimal, not overly secured, without any superfluous bells and whistles. Strength and endurance are equally required. And the icing on the cake is a panorama that has fascinated mountain climbers for more than 100 years. The mountain is not only famous for its views, but also for its caves. In the fall of 1864, Sulzfluh was therefore the destination of a real expedition. No less than 20 men took part in the company of the SAC section Rhätia; The results of the scientific investigation were recorded in a remarkable script. Caves were also found on the Montafoner side of the Bergstock. One of them, the Gauablickhöhle, has been reachable by via ferrata since 2006: a completely different mountain experience. The two secured routes can be combined to form one large tour, connecting Prättigau and Montafon. As a single day's work, however, it is suitable at best for alpine endurance runners. It is much better to plan a night in the Carschina or Tilisuna hut. In this way you can also enjoy the atmospheric twilight hours high in the mountains.

Route description

Gauablickhöhle via ferrata
Zigzag over scree to the start (about 2210 m, information board). Steel cables lead upwards over rock slabs; a short steep step is climbed on iron rungs, then traverses left to the entrance of the 350-meter-long Gauablickhöhle. Cables lead the way; access to an underground lake is closed off. At the eastern cave entrance (bench) the cable again points upwards. Steep steps (iron steps) alternate with easier passages. An intermediate exit to the Tilisuna hut is marked blue-white-blue; it flows into the Montafoner normal route to Sulzfluh. The ferrata leads continues upwards, well secured everywhere, to the top of the cliff (ca. 2450 m, 3 hours from summit Sulzfluh) at the northern edge of the wide Karrenfeld.

Additional information

Character

The Sulzfluh via ferrata is a demanding, rather long route on a demanding cliff face (K4, places K4-5) with some strenuous steep passages and very airy traverses. Not necessarily the right tour for beginners! The Montafon via ferrata on the north side of the Sulzfluh is less difficult (K3), a absolute highlight being Gauablickhöhle. A head lamp is essential for a visit! Those who do both climbing routes one after the other must take into account that the marked north-facing descent through the Rachen is quite tricky (brittle, easy climbing sections). In early summer, there is rock hard old snow - and light-weight crampons and telescopic poles are recommended.

Time

Total time Sulzfluh and Gauablickhöhle via ferratas: 10 hours St. Antönien to Sülzfluh: 4¾ hrs. Descent through the Rachen: 1½ hrs. Gauablickhöhle via ferrata: 1½ hrs. Descent to St. Antönien: 2¼ hrs If you drive to the last car park below Partnun, the walking time will be shortened by just under 1 hour.

Signalisation

Well marked. Info board at the start.

Descent

Durchwegs gut markiert, Hinweistafel beim Einstieg

Author

Daniel Anker

Daniel Anker is a Bernese author and photographer. The historian has written around 40 ski tour, hiking, via ferrata and mountain bike guide books as well as detailed monographs on individual peaks in Switzerland.

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