Sulzfluh via ferrata. Sulzfluh 2817 m
- K4-5, T4
- 2:30 h, 460 m
- Mountain Experience
- 3 / 4
- 3 / 4
- 3 / 4
- 3 / 4
Drusenﬂuh–Sulzﬂuh–Schijenﬂue: famous climbing peaks with great, steep, south-facing rock. A site for real rock climbers, no question. But since 2005, even those who need a little help for their mountain venture (such as wire cables, ladders and iron steps) can experience the steep wall feeling of Rätikon: on the Bündner Sulzfluh via ferrata. This can be described as an absolute cliff route, logical in its course, adapted to the terrain, optimal, not overly secured, without any superfluous bells and whistles. Strength and endurance are equally required. And the icing on the cake is a panorama that has fascinated mountain climbers for more than 100 years. The mountain is not only famous for its views, but also for its caves. In the fall of 1864, Sulzfluh was therefore the destination of a real expedition. No less than 20 men took part in the company of the SAC section Rhätia; The results of the scientific investigation were recorded in a remarkable script. Caves were also found on the Montafoner side of the Bergstock. One of them, the Gauablickhöhle, has been reachable by via ferrata since 2006: a completely different mountain experience. The two secured routes can be combined to form one large tour, connecting Prättigau and Montafon. As a single day's work, however, it is suitable at best for alpine endurance runners. It is much better to plan a night in the Carschina or Tilisuna hut. In this way you can also enjoy the atmospheric twilight hours high in the mountains.
Steel cables lead over oblique slabs to the vertical starting ladder, iron rungs then help through a chimney. The easy "Obelixquergang" is followed by a steep rock step, made easy with more iron rungs; more ledges and steps follow until the so-called 'ramp'. The ramp is climbed (good natural steps and handles) to reach a grass band. Head shortly left, then practice your pull ups on a 15 meter high vertical wall. Behind the "Geissrücken" a wooden bench invites you to take a breather. One should take advantage of the opportunity, as the difficulties still increase slightly higher on the wall. After a longer easy traverse the next challenge for strength and psyche follows: a power sapping 30 meter high wall. This is followed by the "Panoramica", which lives up to its name. More iron steps lead up a slab to another, more difficult traverse, where either good technique or brute strength is required. The next highlight of the route is the "Deichmannsteg", a three-cable bridge. If you manage this small balancing act, the route book awaits. Then there is one last challenge, the "Wailing Wall": 40 meters high, slightly overhanging at the beginning - that will make your forearms burn. The rest is merely an encore: a small iron bridge, a last easy step, and then you stand next to the summit cross and enjoy the great panorama of Sulzfluh (2817 m, 4¾ hrs.). Please feel free to make a small donation towards the ferrata's upkeep. A big Thank you! in advance.
The Sulzfluh via ferrata is a demanding, rather long route on a demanding cliff face (K4, places K4-5) with some strenuous steep passages and very airy traverses. Not necessarily the right tour for beginners! The Montafon via ferrata on the north side of the Sulzfluh is less difficult (K3), a absolute highlight being Gauablickhöhle. A head lamp is essential for a visit! Those who do both climbing routes one after the other must take into account that the marked north-facing descent through the Rachen is quite tricky (brittle, easy climbing sections). In early summer, there is rock hard old snow - and light-weight crampons and telescopic poles are recommended.
Total time Sulzfluh ferrata: 7 hours.
If you drive to the last car park below Partnun, the walking time will be shortened by just under 1 hour.
St. Antönien approach: 2¼ hours.
Sulzfluh ferrata: 2½ hours.
Descent: 2¼ hours.
Total time Sulzfluh and Gauablickhöhle via ferratas: 10 hours
St. Antönien to Sülzfluh: 4¾ hrs.
Descent through the Rachen: 1½ hrs.
Gauablick cave via ferrata: 1½ hrs.
Descent to St. Antönien: 2¼ hrs.
Well marked. Info boards at the start.