Tête aux Chamois Via Ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Tête aux Chamois Via Ferrata Tête aux Chamois 2524 m

  • Difficulty
    K5
  • Ascent
    2:30 h, 120 m
  • Mountain Experience
    1 / 4
  • Power
    3 / 4
  • Endurance
    2 / 4
  • Psyche
    4 / 4

The opening of "Via Ferrata de la Tête aux Chamois" in 1998 marked a turning point in the Helvetic via ferrata history; With the construction of the spectacular route, the French style ferrata arrived in Switzerland. No longer was the summit the goal, rock contact was of minor importance. The result excites one type of person, rather deters the other (e.g. tradition mountaineers): iron 'en masse', bottomless depths under the feet. If you take this iron way at the Tête aux Chamois, you do not have to be a chamois, but you do have to bring along some gymnastic skills and some strong nerves. You can already take stock of it during the cable car ride, where the vertical ridge below Tête aux Chamois comes close, and you might spot a few climbers on the shadowy wall already on their way, moving from one iron bar to the next - like flies on a wall. The sight will either excite, or fill you with dread!

Route description

Tête aux Chamois Via Ferrata
A grass band, which gradually becomes just barely a foot of rock, leads out into the north face of the Gämskopf. The depth increases; An initial test for the biceps and nerves is a slight overhang that you have to master in descent. Anyone who gets into trouble here can, after a small cave, extricate themselves prematurely (sign for "échappatoire"). The continuation of the route initially leads upwards, with a second slightly overhanging passage, then alternates from horizontal to vertical leftwards, with almost continuous (maximum) exposure. After a section which is harder for small people, a 5-meter long wooden beam leads over the abyss. Another two small overhangs, and the "ferratisti" finds themselves beside a huge vertical wall, the "Yellow Rock" or Rocher Jaune: and must traverse over bottomless depths, felt with every step. With an increased pulse rate, you can then relax a little on a (comparatively) comfortable ledge. You get the picture: up, left, up left, up left ... until a final, rather sparingly secured slope leads to the exit (ca. 2440 m). Here, the Ferratisti (with a slightly shaky hand) may enter their names in the route book: done!

Additional information

Character

Extremely exposed sport via ferrata, according to its French creators (a company from St-Jean-de-Maurienne). Characterised by many airy crossings, and some steep overhanging passages. An absolute highlight is the traverse of Rocher Jaune. The ascent - technically only moderately demanding - requires fearlessness, complete immunity against height and a lot of arm strength. After almost a third of the route is an escape option. Short sling with carabiner highly recommended - for clipping in and resting (NOT to be used as fall-arrest device!).

Time

Total time: 3 hrs. Approach: ¼ hr. Ferrata: 2½ hrs. Descent: ¼ hr.

Signalisation

Well marked

Author

Daniel Anker

Daniel Anker is a Bernese author and photographer. The historian has written around 40 ski tour, hiking, via ferrata and mountain bike guide books as well as detailed monographs on individual peaks in Switzerland.

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