From the Schönbielhütte via the Stockjigletscher | Alpinism | Tête Blanche | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Schönbielhütte via the Stockjigletscher (Normal route) Tête Blanche 3706 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 1218 m
  • Descent
    211 m

The normal route from Schönbiel leads east past Stockji to P. 3040 and then over the Stockjigletscher to the summit.

Route description

Schönbielhütte - Stockji (P. 3040)

From the Schönbielhütte (2694 m) take the lower western path and descend into the glacial hollow, move south (downhill) across the glacier to reach the opposite bank beneath the rocks of P. 2938. When the slope aspect changes from NE to SE, follow tracks west, up onto the moraine ridge. This safe path onto the moraine ridge starts roughly 100 m left (east) of it, and can be hard to find in the dark. So pay attention! (At least half an hour to this point) At the end of the moraine ridge, the path climbs, through some debris fields and up over several short rocky steps to the saddle at 3040 on Stockji. Cairns lead the way along the last section; if you lose it in the dark, you better retrace your steps. Otherwise you can get into trouble and lose a lot of time. From the saddle (3040 m) drop dow onto the heavily crevassed Stockjigletscher.

Stockji (P. 3040) - Tête Blanche

First head west, then arc north towards the Wandfluejoch (3443 m) onto a small plateau. From here move southwest past P. 3346, then gradually west to reach the steep firn slope below the Col de la Tête Blanche. The big crevasses ca. 3500 m are best bypassed - if there is enough snow - to the right (north). If this is not possible, you must pass the crevasse zone further south, reaching the plateau of Col de Valpelline, before cutting back NE onto the obscure hummock of Col de la Tête Blanche (not a pronounced col / saddle). You are now at an altitude of 3589 m, 4 hours. From here bear gradually south (left) to the Tête Blanche (3710 m), 1 hour.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Gottlieb Lauterburg, Gottlieb Studer, Melchior Ulrich with mountain guides Anton und Josef Biner, Niklaus Inderbinen and Johann Madutz, 15. August 1849.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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