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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From Cabane de l'A Neuve via the Southeast Flank (Normal route) Tour Noir 3836 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    4:30–5:30 h, 1101 m

The Passage d'Argentière (north of the Col d'Argentière) can be reached from the Cabane de l'A Neuve over the crevasse covered Glacier de l'A Neuve. Then follow the SE Flank to the summit.

Route description

Cabane de l'A Neuve - below P. 2753

From the Cabane de l'A Neuve (2735 m), cross the crevasse covered Glacier de l'A Neuve to the broad gully below P. 2753.

Below P. 2753 - Passage d'Argentière

Below P. 2753: Climb west up the broad gully then cross the glacier diagonally SW to the base of the SE spur. You reach the spur at about 3100 m after negotiating an often difficult bergschrund. Taking the logical line, climb up the easy but loose and quite steep rocks of the spur to the Passage d'Argentière (about 3620 m), 3 hrs.

Passage d'Argentière - Tour Noir

Now climb the easy rock ridge to the first pointy tower. This can be bypassed to the right or left. You must then climb up into a small gap before a second, larger tower. Here you cross rightwards onto the SE flank, and follow ledges approximately 100 m below the summit (known as the "Vires Javelle"). These are at first horizontal then slightly rising, and are interrupted by small steps. After about 80 m you reach a small rock wall at the foot of a 12 m high chimney. Climb the chimney (grade 2a) and move onto a rib, which is easily followed to a gap between the two summits. Now on the main ridge, you can easily reach the summit of the Tour Noir (3836 m), 1½ hours.

Descent

Down the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
History

Emile Javelle, F.F. Turner with Joseph Mooser and François Fournier, 3. August 1876 (at the time this party reached the Col d'Argentière via the E flank).

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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