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From southeast, via the Guppengrat Vrenelisgärtli 2904 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, I
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- Ascent
- 4:30–6:30 h, 2200 m
Steep climb from Schwändi (700 m) directly to the Vrenelisgärtli (2905 m) This ascent via the Guppengrat is becoming increasingly popular. Warning, rockfall resulting from multiple parties ahead.
Route description
Schwändi - Guppenalp
Possible to sleep at the Guppenalp.
Guppen Oberstafel - Chanzle
From the saddle at Guppen Oberstafel (P. 1648) follow the Alpweg (path) to Heuberg. From the Hexenstein (witches stone) head north up a scree filled gully, right of the Mittelstock. Bear left (easy climbing) onto the ridge behind the Mittelstock. Next move left (west) of the main ridge to join a gully system rising northwards, cross the Mittleres Firnband, and ascend steep gully, left of the conspicuous slender, tower (WARNING: Rockfall from other parties!) From the top of the gully (after climbing right of a large cairn), move northwest onto grassy screes and the foot of the Guppenfirn (glacier).
Chanzle - Gipfel
Cross the foot of the Guppenfirn to the north of Chanzle (2604 m). Easier early summer when snow bridges are thick, and the snow slope reaches higher. If there's no more snow, take the variant "Kamin"(topo). From the saddle behind Chanzle, the southeast ridge (Guppengrat) is climbed, with 'good' exposure but little difficulty to the summit. Indeed the whole southern flank is surprisingly easy to walk around on.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent, or take the route over the Schwandergrat (ridge) and the Glärnischfirn (glacier) to the Glärnischhütte. Warning: Glacier equipment required (crevasses!).
