From southwest via the Glärnischhütte. | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From southwest via the Glärnischhütte. (Normal route) Vrenelisgärtli 2904 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    3–5 h, 910 m
  • Descent
    2–4 h, 910 m

A simple glacier tour with a slightly tricky section on the Schwandergrat and again on the connecting ridge between Schwandergrat and the main summit. Two chains have recently been fixed on the descent from the Schwandergrat to the connecting ridge. The Glärnischfirn (glacier) is - apart from a few crevasses - overall harmless and not very steep. Its still a glacier, and can be different in bad conditions. For this route, you can easily add on and ascent of the Ruchens.

Route description

Glärnischhütte - Glärnischfirn (glacier)
From the Glärnischhütte, follow marked paths to the Glärnischfirn (glacier) marked in red.
Glärnischfirn - Schwander Grat
Continue over the Glärnischfirn along its left (northern) edge all the way to the start of the Schwandergrat (highest point of the glacier). Since 2015, at around 2750 m, a rocky barrier has begun to emerge, interrupting the otherwise regular snow slope. This can usually crossed in normal conditions. However, the size of this rock barrier will only increase in the coming years due to ongoing glacial retreat.
Schwander Grat - Verbindungsgrat (P. 2795 m) - Vrenelisgärtli
On the Schwandergrat you reach two chains (~ 30 m), which facilitate transition onto the connecting ridge. It should be noted that one chain is intended for descent and the other for ascent (like that'll work!). From here, descend along the connecting ridge to P. 2795. Follow the ridge to the summit of Vrenelisgärtli (easy climbing).
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Waypoints

Schwander Grat (Glärnisch) (2859 m)

Can always call it a day here!

History

Krauer and Schoch with E. Zimmermann, 20. September 1865

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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