Weisshorn (VS) | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Weisshorn (VS) 4506 m Alpinism

The Weisshorn is one of the few mountains that appeal to both climbers and non-climbers alike. It is visible from a great distance and immediately recognizable due to its incomparable shape. You can see it from many, very distant observation points. Several elements mean that this magnificent mountain stands out from the crowd. It is an even pyramid with three prominent, star-shaped diverging ridges. While the Weisshorn appears really very white and glaciated from the Mattertal, its huge, mostly rocky west face, measuring two kilometers along its base, dominates the view from Val de Zinal. Another impressive landmark of this uniquely beautiful mountain is the incredibly high Grand Gendarme (4329 m) on the NNW ridge, a key part of two classic routes.

It is no coincidence that this great mountain attracted the best mountaineers of the Belle Epoque. All the main ridges and faces were all overcome by well-known figures. The unshakable Irishman John Tyndall managed to climb to the summit for the first time in 1861 with two very experienced mountain guides.

The Weisshorn is very well developed, with the Schalijoch bivouac hut, the Cabane d'Arpitetta, the Weisshornhütte, the Cabane de Tracuit and the Turtmannhütte. However, all of its routes and climbs are long and very demanding.

Known as "ts Wiss'hore" my the Mattertal folk, its name refers to the glaciated NE side. "Le Weisshorn" is also common on the other side of the language border, although seen from the west it is more brown and grey (rocky). Interpretation of this name should not contain any particular hurdles; these are more likely to be found on the mountain itself. All the climbs are difficult and committing. And not to mention the endless descents... are you psyched yet?

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