From Hohsaas via the Northwest Flank | Alpinism

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From Hohsaas via the Northwest Flank

From Hohsaas via the Northwest Flank (Normal route) Weissmies 4017 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

3:30 h, 917 m
Descent

20 m

From Hohsaas the route leads over the glaciated WNW flank to the summit. This is the normal route from the Weissmieshütte or Hohsaas. Today it is often undertaken as a day tour. To do this, its is best to take the first cable car from Saas-Grund via Kreuzboden to Hohsaas (take note of the timetable for the last one down - it changes throughout the season. An overnight stay in the mountain hut Hohsaas has the advantage that you can leave earlier.

Weissmies from the North West. Centre Image: Station Hohsaas. © Petra Waldburger

Weissmies, Triftgletscher. Glacier retreat is strongly altering the northwest flank. (09/2009) © Ludwig Weh

Weissmies, the normal route. (08/2008) © Ludwig Weh

Route description

Station Hohsaas - Triftgletscher

The station at Hohsaas can be reached by cable car, or from the Weissmieshütte in 1 hour. Above Hohsaas (about 3140 m), a wide track crosses the scree-covered S flank of Geissrück. At about 3100 m you connect with the northern edge of the Trift Glacier.

Triftgletscher - Weissmies

Firn snow on the lowermost part of the glacier is severely depleted in mid-summer and its surface is littered with 'mobile' boulders. Climb up between the crevasses and head southwards more or less straight across the centre. Towards the southern edge skirt around the larger crevasses before heading up, first east, and then (at about 3280 m) SE along the fall line of the main upper glacier. Cut back west about 3400 m through some more large crevasses. Be aware of ice fall/ serac danger posed by the W flank above you. This brings you onto the broad firn shoulder leading down WNW from P. 3814. Follow this, bearing left to the saddle at its top (ca. 3780 m). Now follow the initially easy firn ridge to a small steeper section, which can be tricky or dangerous when icy. Now climb eastwards up the final firn flank, which leads you directly to the Weissmies summit at 4017 m. 3 1/2 hours.

Descent

Route of Ascent

Additional information

Departure point

Hohsaas gondola summit station (3101 m)

Info Saas-Grund - Hohsaas: www.hohsaas.info/en/

Get there Google Maps

Hohsaas

Difficulty: Access to the Trift glacier is often difficult. Beware of crevasses and icefall in the WNW flank, especially in late summer and when it is very hot!