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From the Almagellerhütte via the SSE-Ridge (Normal route) Weissmies 4017 m
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- Difficulty
- PD+, 2a
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- Ascent
- 4:30 h, 1138 m
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- Descent
- 15 m
This is the normal route from the Almagellerhütte, a beautiful start for a classic traverse.
Route description
Almagellerhütte - Zwischbergenpass
From the Almagellerhütte (2892 m), cross the stream and immediately turn north east. The path leads first through lush meadows, then into bare, earthy and rocky hollows. Continue more or less straight across the debris to gain southern Zwischbergenpass (3242 m). From there climb along the ridge, then cross screes to the northern saddle (3270 m) 1 1/4 hrs.
Zwischbergenpass - Weissmies
From here, walk up right of the first hump (3341 m) then (in early season, amble over firn snow to the right of the ridge to gain the large triangular snowfield (about 3500 m), which can be used to gain height before crossing onto SSE ridge higher up, or) if you prefer/ when the snowfield has blank ice, climb the SSE ridge in its entirety. The ridge presents just a handful of steeper steps, but all with easy climbing (grade II). From about 3900 m, a short, narrow snow ridge (sometimes corniced) leads northeast to the summit (4017 m), 3 1/4 hrs.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent. Or: Descend the normal WNW-Flank towards Hohsaas.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Waypoints
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- History
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First ascent unknown. First winter ascent: Angelo Romano Calegari, G. Scotti, February 12, 1912.
