From this shoulder, a broad ledge leads onto the E flank. Variant a): Many rope teams follow this band and then ascend over the brittle, rockfall-exposed e-flank; there tracks have now formed. This variant is becoming more and more the 'standard route'. Variant b): Somewhat safer, though also brittle in places, is the original normal route: the E-ridge starts has a vertical step at the bottom. Directly below this steep step, climb diagonally up and left onto the E-flank. Then as soon as possible climb 1 SL over rocky steps into a niche at the foot of a vertical chimney. Up and right of this chimney is a shoulder. Climb the chimney direct (Friend) and then move out right on the shoulder. This brings you onto the broad E-ridge (iron stake). This place is called the "Pulpit". Follow the wide ridge over slabs about 100 m up (partly brittle rock on the slabs, more iron pegs) up to another vertical step. Here again traverse left on a broad ledge. At this point the two variants unite again (remember this point for your descent). Climb a decent rock section up onto a large block field. Continue across in a W-direction, bypassing yet another small tower system on the left-hand side and ascend to a gap before the last, slabby upswing; a small, steep step which goes at 2c. Then follow the large slabs (peg) though a crack system up to a final rocky platform. From here a short snow crest leads to the tip of the "Wave Crest" (3901 m), 1 hour.

Down the route of ascent.