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- Difficulty
- 5a (5a)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 14 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 320 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- SE, S / Gneiss
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- Altitude start
- 2680 m
The first and therefore oldest sport climbing route in the Wiwanni area. Beautiful, varied climbing, often done. Recommendable.
Route description
Approach
Wiwannihütte – Wiwanni – Einstieg.
Route «Steinadler»
Follow the route according to the topo for 14 pitches. The route ends at the S summit (not marked on the map).
Continuation: «Steinadler» – Wiwannihorn
From the top of the route you can reach the main summit via the SSE ridge, first by simple climbing, then later with parkour skills over talus and boulders.
Descent SW-wall "Tritji"
Fastest descent from Wiwannihorn back to the hut. Otherwise you can take the somewhat harder but shorter SW-ridge.
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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50m
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Quick draws
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10
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Stoppers
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Friends
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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✔
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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The crux is more difficult than 5a by today's standard.
- Rock Type / Quality
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Generally good to very good. Easy pitches have slightly more lose rock.
- Descent
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Descend the normal route on the SW wall “Trittji”, or follow the SW ridge.
- History
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F.X. Leiggener, B. Pfaffen, E. Feller, 1982.
