From the Monte Rosa hut to the Zumsteinspitze and on to Signalkuppe/ Cap. Margherita | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Monte Rosa hut to the Zumsteinspitze and on to Signalkuppe/ Cap. Margherita (Normal route) Zumsteinspitze 4562 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    8–9 h, 1680 m

The Zumsteinspitze is higher than the Matterhorn or the Weisshorn; even higher than Dom. After a long uphill slog, the turning point of the tour is the magnificent Colle Gnifetti, which can also be reached from the Italian side.

Route description

Monte Rosahütte - Grenzgletscher
From the Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2882 m) follow the moraine path up to the right and enter the Grenzgletscher SE from Ober Plattje (3109 m).
Grenzgletscher - Colle Gnifetti
Climb first along the northeastern shore of the Grenzgletscher. The glacier is heavily crevassed, with many in the direction of the travel. Bear rightwards (south) of a prominent rock spur (3468 m). Depending on conditions you climb through the glacial basin between the rocky island at P. 3699 m (known by the locals as Topali Rocks ) and the serac zone on the right before traversing round onto the large first glacier plateau. (The route east past P. 3699 is no longer possible due to glacier recession). Due to the risk of avalanche and ice fall coming from Liskamm's north face, it is not recommended to climb south of the next major crevasse zone (3800-3900 m), but rather follow the north-east edge of the plateau and climb the broad glacial gully, which leads directly up onto the next plateau ca. 4000 m. Here bear right (southwards) to avoid the large crevasses at about 4050 m or climb towards the steep slope north beneath the Zumsteinspitze into the hollow (about 4100 m) leading up in the direction of Parrotspitze. Arc round to the northeast beneath the Seserjoch (4296 m) and make a long gentle "S" to reach the Colle Gnifetti, 6 1/2 hours.
Colle Gnifetti - Zumsteinspitze
From the Colle Gnifetti (4455 m), a firn ridge leading into a final rocky scramble brings you to the summit of Zumsteinspitze (4562 m) in ½ hour.
Zumsteinspitze - Signalkuppe/ Cap. Margherita
From the Zumsteinspitze head back the same way to Colle Gnifetti, ¼ hrs. From Colle Gnifetti, climb south over a short firn slope, then back NE onto the ridge and Punta Gnifetti (4553 m, Cap. Regina Margherita), ¼ hrs.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Joseph Zumstein, Johann Niklaus, Joseph Vincent, Sig. Molinatti with the porters Joseph Beck, Moritz Zumstein (as well as other leaders and porters), 1. August 1820.

 

Anecdote from Alagna: The lost valley

There used to be a green valley called Feliktal, somewhere on Monte Rosa, between Lisjoch and Seserjoch.

But the people there became unworthy and proud: so God covered this wonderful valley, from one side to the other with white snow and glaciers. From then on, the Valais people could neither leave nor return to this valley.

The valley has disappeared under the snow: the only thing left is a difficult pass that only very virtuous people can walk across. In 1778, some young Gressoney lads searched for this valley and reached 4178 meters on Monte Rosa. They did not find the valley, but they were the first humans to reach a height of over 4000 meters in the mountains of the Alps. The rock they reached was named "Entdeckungsstein" or "Discovery Stone". (It lies just NW of the Lisjoch)

Authors

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

Hermann Biner

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