COVID-19

As of 11 May, the SAC huts will be allowed to open and section tours will be possible again - however, some restrictions will remain in force.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Steep wall Especially Beautiful route

Niedermann Zwillingsturm (Salbit) 2920 m

  • Difficulty
    6a (5c+)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    14 P / 5 h, 380 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SE / Granite
  • Altitude start
    2550 m

This route by the legendary rope of Niedermann & Anderrüthi follows the natural weaknesses of the wall. While the first five pitches are nothing special (except for the massive chock-stone bit) the rest is really interesting, with unique passages like the double corners of pitch 10 and the huge letterbox slot you have to squeeze through on pitch 12. Once on top - to add to the pleasure - you can continue along the south ridge or one of the 5c-6a variants up to the main summit of Salbitschijen and its spectacular summit tooth. If you intend to do this, do not leave anything at the start of the route.

Route description

Salbithütte - cliff base

From the Salbithütte follow the path as for Salbitschijenbiwak to the small terrace at about 2350 m, where the path flattens out and turns left towards the suspension bridge. Continue straight up over screes to reach the cliff base. The start of the route is located at the foot of a couloir in the vertical fall line of the giant chock stone on pitch 5. At the beginning of the season there can be snow on the approach.

Niedermann

See topo

Descent

Abseil the cliff, or continue along the Südgrat to the main summit.

Additional information

Protection
Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope
2x50m
Quick draws
12
Stoppers
-
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Rock Type / Quality

A few loose blocks and some vegetation on the first 5 pitches.

Protection / Material

The bolting is sparse but you can always place gear. A set of friends 0.5 to 3 is handy.

Depending on the state of the neve at the foot of the wall (call the hut), crampons or an ice axe can be useful.

Descent

If you want to descend on foot, you have to climb over the south ridge or one of the variants to the summit of Salbitschijens. If not, you can return to the base of the wall via the abseil in the routes Light and Shadow and Jimmy (see sketch).

History

Franz Anderrüthi, Max Niedermann, 1956 / 2003.

Author

Christophe Siméon

Christophe Siméon hat Französisch und Geschichte studiert und arbeitet zurzeit als Lehrer. Als aktiver Alpinist und Kletterer beteiligt er sich auch an Routeneröffnungen und -sanierungen. Seit 2011 ist er Mitglied der SAC-Verlagskommission.

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