Berichtigungen und Nachträge zum Walliserführer Bd. II
Captain Q. Ingle Finch schreibt mir wörtlich:
During a visit to the Alps this summer, my first since 1914, your guide-book, the „ Clubführer durch die Walliser Alpen ", vols. Ili a and 6, was brought to my notice. Since then I have read it through most carefully and must congratulate you upon the excellence and the accuracy of the information it contains.
In volume III a, however, I have discovered one or two rather important errors and omissions, and in view of this I hope you will not think it remiss of me if I point thèse out to you.
In vol. III«, page 30; my name ( Finch ) is speit „ Finkh ". Further the route taken by Mantel and myself on the N face of Castor differs from that of Miss Richardson in that the latter left the N face after having descended only the upper half of the face. Our route, however, begins at the actual foot of this face. ( Vide the enclosed post-cards. ) Pages 27 et seq. contain no référence to Captain Farrar's first ascent of Pollux by the North ridge from the unquoted point about 3870 m and described by him in A.J. XXV, page 560. Farrar further informs me that the lower portion of the N ridge of Pollux below point 3669 m has probably been used for the descent from the Schwarztor by parties who have found the ice-fall impossible. The whole ridge was ascended by Max Liniger A.A.C.Z. and myself this summer under the impression that the climb was new in its entirety. It proved to be a long and difficult expédition involving much stepcutting.
Pages 106 et seq. The description of the East face route up Monte Rosa is somewhat confused. As a matter of fact there is nothing in Alpine literature which does give a clear idea of the routes followed on this climb. Ail routes sofar followed would appear to differ, at ail events in minor détails. The following are amongst the more obvious errors:
Page 107. „ Der Imsengrücken gabelt sich in seinem oberen Teile in zwei Arme. " This must certainly be an error, as I know that the Rücken throws out no branches at all from the point at which it is gained upon crossing thè Mannelli couloir until it disappears under the séracs at an altitude of about 3540 m.
On the same page 1 hour is given as the time required to reach the foot of the final ice-slope ( about 4150 m ) from thè summit of the Imsengrücken ( 3540 m ), a height différence of over 600 m which, in view of the extremely difflcult ice-work encountered upon this portion of the climb, hardly seems possible.
On the same page the angle of the final ice-slope leading to the rocks of the Grenzgipfel is stated to be 65°. My own measurements of this slope ( done with squared paper and an improvised plumb line ) gave an angle of about 50about 3 ° ). I have seen this slope on three separate occasions; it was always ice and extremely dangerous from falling stones.
I have noticed that the impression has gained ground that thè E face of Monte Rosa is a comparatively easy climb, even though very dangerous; and I have already heard of certain climbers who propose to attempt it as soon as the Italian border is opened to ordinary tourist traffic once more. The climbers whom I have Berichtigungen und Nachträge zum WalliserfiXhrer Bd. II.
Koutes Finch and Mantel 1909.
Miss Richardson 1890.
Finch and Liniger 1919.
in mind are utterly incapable of dealing successfully with a proposition such as the E face, and would most certainly meet with disaster if they attempt it. As a matter of fact the E face ascent of Monte Rosa is not only dangerous from the moment one leaves the hut ( the Jägerrücken is not safe ) until one has gained the rocks of the Grenzgipfel, but it also involves much extremely complicated ice-work of a difficult nature and finishes up with 400 mètres of strenuous rock climbing which, even in good condition, is far more difficult than anything met with on, for instance, the Zmutt ridge.
Anmerkung der Redaktion: Siehe nun oben pag. 33—40.
With regard to the as yet unpublished portion of your guide-book, Conway's Climbers'Guide states that the S ridge of the Tête de Valpelline has been climbed; this is not correct, it has been neither ascended nor descended, though I know of several attempts which have all failed. The first descent of the SW ridge of the Zinal Rothorn was made by myself and H. A. Mantel in 1909.
Capt. G. Ingle Finch ( section Genevoise ).