Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Piz Bernina 4047 m Route archive

Piz Bernina with its northern subsidiary, Piz Alv or Pizzo Bianco, 3993 m, is the highest mountain in the Rhaetian Alps and the only four-thousand-meter peak in the Eastern Alps. The highest point is entirely on Swiss soil. The border runs over the shoulder known as La Spedla (Italian La Spalla), 4020 m, which is roughly 200 m south of the main summit. This imposing mountain has three distinctive ridges: The N ridge - the Biancograt, is one of the most famous route on a 4000er and is therefore also known as the "Himmelsleiter", or ladder to heaven. The S-SE Ridge from Rifugio Marco e Rosa, known as the La Spalla route, is the normal and therefore most frequently climbed approach to Piz Bernina. The E ridge (route of the first ascent) was regarded as the normal route until 1914, but is now rarely climbed.

The name Bernina is most likely derived from the personal name Bernini (a common family name in northern Italy). Bernini was the name of the owner of an alp (known today as Alp da Buond) which sits northwest of Passo del Bernina. In 1429 this alp was sold under the name "Barnyna" to the municipality of Bondo in Bergell.

First ascent by Johann Coaz with Joan and Lorenz Ragut Tscharner on September 13, 1850 in 12 hours from Bernina Suot.

Huts in the Region

feedback