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Galenstock 3586 m Route archive

The shapely Galenstock, with its striking but dangerous summit cornice, dominates the area of the Furkapass. Two heavily articulated ridges with many secondary peaks lead out from its south side. One carries the jagged tops of the Gross and Chli Bielenhorns; the other, which stretches as far as Furkapass, the heavy accents of Sidelenhorn and the Gross + Klein Furkahorns. What nobody would have thought possible years ago has, unfortunately due to glacier retreat, become reality: On the summit, during late summer, you may no longer stand on a massive snow cap, but be sitting on the sun-warmed rocks enjoying the grandiose view of Valais or Urnerland.

Until the 1960s, the Galenstock really was a snow and ice tour. Except for the SE pillar there was not much to climb on its rocky flanks. Hans-Peter Geier and Dieter Kienast then opened the Galengrat-Verschneidung in 1966, a bold ascent for that time. In the midst of the great alpine environment, this route has become a classic.

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