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From Zermatt via Zmutt and Arbengandegge (Normal route) Arbenbiwak SAC 3225 m
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- Difficulty
- T5+
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- Ascent
- 5:45 h, 1610 m
The normal approach to Arbenbiwak, through beautiful landscape beneath the magnificent Matterhorn North Face.
Route description
Zermatt - Zmutt - Chalbermatten - Arbenbach
From Zermatt (1605 m, railway station) go along the main high street, the 'Bahnhofstrasse', past the church and straight ahead. At the end of the village you can see the valley station of the Zermatt - Furi cable car on the left. There you turn right in the direction of Zmutt (signpost). Follow the not-too steep, wide path to Zmutt (1937 m), 1 1/4 hrs.
Keep on the right-hand path that leads slowly up above the reservoir to Bodmen (2056 m) and Chalbermatten (2105 m), 3/4 hrs.
A little further on, at P. 2161, follow the right-hand fork, and climb up to the base of the rocks below Arben. It zigzags up behind the northern moraine of the Zmutt Glacier and in a hollow reaches the Arben stream, 3/4 hrs.
Arbenbach - Arbengandegge - Arbenbiwak
Cross the Arbenbach and turn right, climbing up the valley beside it (now on a white-blue-white marked path. Cross the stream again ca. 2500 m and follow some zigzags up onto the Arbengandegge (moraine crest). Follow the distinctive crest up to P. 2959. Here the path climbs up and then left onto a ledge (easy scrambling). Pass a small tarn over screes, then climb a rocky groove to reach the fragmented, debris covered Arbengletscher. A ladder facilitates the transition from glacier to rock, which is climbed easily to the bivouac (3224 m), 3 hours.
Variant: Approach from Schwarzsee
From Schwarzsee, follow the marked hiking trail via Stafelalp to the turnoff at the Arbenbach (1 1/4 hrs)
Additional information
- Time
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Der Weg bis zum Arbenbach ist identisch mit dem zur Schönbielhütte. Der Arben Bach kann auch in 1¼ Std. von Schwarzsee her erreicht werden.
Ab Furi: insgesamt kaum Zeitgewinn.
- Difficulty / Material
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Ab Arbenbach weiss-blau-weiss markiert. In der Felsstufe unter dem Biwak ausgesetzt und klettersteigartig eingerichtet (Ketten, künstliche Tritte).
- Waypoints
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Schwarzsee, top station (2583 m)
Startpunkt der Variante.
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