From the South | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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From the South (Normal route) Geisshorn (VS) 3740 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

3–4 h, 950 m

A light and highly recommended high-altitude tour from the Fusshornbiwak. The magnificent view from the summit into the Upper- and Middle Aletsch area is rarely savoured. The whole area surrounding the Geisshorn is very unique and you are likely to be alone. Instead of returning to the Fußhornbiwak, it is possible to descend via Unnerbäch to Ze Bächu and then onto the Great Aletsch Glacier. From here you can either cross the glacier in a northeasterly direction to reach the Märjela and finally the Fiescheralp, or cross the glacier in a southerly direction to reach Riederalp via the Moosflue.

Route topo: Geisshorn from the south. (07/2012) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Fusshorn Bivouac hut. (07/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Traverse beneath the Driestgletscher. (07/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

The glacier tongue of the Zenbächengletscher. (07/2007) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Over rock and scree. (07/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

From the bivoauc over rock and screes to the gap above P.3130. (07/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Driestgletscher (07/2007) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

View from the summit of Geisshorn over the connecting ridge to the Aletschhorn. (07/2007) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Route description

Fusshornbiwak - Summit

From the Fusshorn bivouac (2788 m), head northeast towards the Driestgletscher and traverse, heading slightly uphill to the gap in the Geissgrat, just north of P. 3130. Here descend over unstable blocks to the end of the Zenbächen glacier. Follow this to the northwest to the summit. Pay attention to cravasses, especially in the region of 3400 m to 3550 m. The firn field to the summit is now quite steep (over 30 degrees at the top). In descent either follow the ascent route, or descend more directly via Ze Bächu to the Grosser Aletschgletscher and corss this northeastwards to gain the tunnel at Märjela.