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West Ridge (Normal route) Gross Muttenhorn 3098 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2a
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4 h, 670 m
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- Descent
- 1:30–2 h, 670 m
The ascent of the Gross Muttenhorn is a rewarding and varied high-altitude tour. The initial ascent via the broad former military road to the Muttgletscher can alternatively be completed by mountain bike. The fast dwindling glacier is easy to get onto in its lower reaches. However, in the autumn, transition from the glacier to the West Ridge can be tricky. In this case, it is best to continue further west until a snowy ramp provides access to the ridge. Once on the ridge, which has great ambience, follow it directly to the summit cross. Here you can enjoy the comprehensive view of the mighty Valais and Bernese Alps.
Route description
Furkapass to the Muttgletscher
From the Furkapass (2429 m), a rather flat military road (no cars allowed) leads through the western flank of the Blauberg to the footbridge P. 2495.
Muttgletscher - West Ridge - Gross Muttenhorn
A moraine gives access to the Muttgletscher which leads up to the West Ridge of the Gross Muttenhorn. Depending on snow conditions the ridge can be reached either in the saddle at P. 3004 or, more easily via a snow ramp at P. 2985. Ca. 100 m after this point jagged rocks bar the way on the ridge. A faint path leads around theses rocks: 30 metres up and down on the south side on steep and partly slippery slopes. In the other case, the following spur up to the saddle (P. 3004) gives simple climbing (up to 2a). From there, good tracks lead over gentle ground to the summit. Descend the same way.
Descent
Follow route of ascent.
