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Ofen
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Alpine climbing

Ofen 2185 m Alpine climbing

Traditional Central Switzerland climbing area, with around 40 multi pitch routes in steep limestone. Far right there are some old routes of more adventurous character; to the left in the area of the eye-catching Schwarzbalm roof: several modern pleasure climbs with almost climbing wall standard bolting. In the main wall in between are nearly twenty highly recommended sport climbing routes, mostly around french 7.

In addition to the Entlebucher Franz Thalmann, who was the first to leave his mark at Ofen, Walter Britschgi and Kurt Winkler were involved in numerous FA's. Many of the older climbs from the eighties and nineties have been re-equipped; most are very closely bolted.

Approaches and descents (2)

route	Difficulty	Ascent
Approach to Ofen, Sector Nünplatten	T2	2–2:30 h, 1000 m
Zustieg Ofen zentraler Wandteil	T3	2–2:30 h, 960 m

Climbing routes (14)

route	Difficulty	Ascent	Exposure	Rock type
Spitzmuis	6a	7 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 140 m	S	Limestone
Der Vogel und das Kind - or - "The bird and the child"	6a+	7 P / 3–4 h, 140 m	S	Limestone
Flüeblüemli	6b	6 P / 3–4 h, 140 m	S	Limestone
Halma	6b	10 P / 4–5 h, 210 m	S	Limestone
Indianerpfeiler	6b+	8 P / 3–4 h, 200 m	S	Limestone
Schwarz Peter	6b+	7 P / 3:30–4:30 h, 180 m	S	Limestone
Highlight	6c	5 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 140 m	S	Limestone
Leiterlispiel	6c	8 P / 4–5 h, 190 m	S	Limestone
Sechsbeiniger Esel	6c	5 P / 3–4 h, 130 m	S	Limestone
Steinbock	6c+	6 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 130 m	S	Limestone
Dach mit Variante Abendrot	7a	8 P / 4–5 h, 130 m	S	Limestone
Lügispiel	7a+	8 P / 4:30–5:30 h, 200 m	S	Limestone
Zabayone	7a+	7 P / 4–5 h, 180 m	S	Limestone
Chrützspinne	7b+	9 P / 3:30–4:30 h, 200 m	S	Limestone

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From the route archive

Zentralschweizerische Voralpen (15) 1996, German

Route	Difficulty
Dracula	VI+, 1 Stelle VII
Chäsriiber	IV bis V, eine Stelle V+
Vergissmeinnicht	V bis VI+, eine Stelle VII oder AO
Dachroute	VI- bis VII-, Ae VII
Abseilpiste West
Abseilpiste Ost
Der Vogel und das Kind	VI- bis VII
Entlebucherstreich	VI+, VII
Ofenrohr	VI+, A2
Hexentanz	V bis VI, 6 m A2
Obwaldner-Traum	V-Vl, eine Stelle VI+ bis VII
Indianerpfeiler	VI bis VII
Wolfsfeder	VI+, 1 Stelle AO oder VII
Kaktus	VI bis VII- im untern Teil, IV bis V im obern Teil.
Herkules	VI+, VII-