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- Difficulty
- 6a+ (5c)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 7 P / 3–4 h, 140 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- S / Limestone
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- Altitude start
- 1940 m
On of the oldest and best routes on the Ofen. Varied climbing past the great roof of Schwarzbalm to the summit ridge. Elegant, technical face climbing on awesome water pocked limestone, interrupted only by one small grass band a third of the way up. The nicely bolted climbing beneath the grass band; a spectacular, athletic hanging traverse, is a highlight of the tour. Descent: 3 straightforward abseils make for a fast descent.
Route description
Additional information
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Protection
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Very well equipped
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Rope
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2x45m
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Quick draws
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12
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Stoppers
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Friends
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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Abseiling possible
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✔
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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Sustained climbing, with one slightly harder technical bit, and one more athletic bit.
- Rock Type / Quality
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Great rock, with one grassy pitch (pitch 5)
- Protection / Material
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Well bolted
- Descent
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3 x abseils. See topo. After the first abseil, traverse a couple of metres west to find the next. Can also descend on foot to the north.
- History
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FA: W. Britschgi, S. Roth, 1982.
- Various
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15. November to 15. June
