Piz Mitgel verticala via ferrata (CLOSED) | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Piz Mitgel verticala via ferrata (CLOSED) Piz Mitgel 3157 m

  • Difficulty
    K4+
  • Ascent
    1:45 h, 350 m
  • Mountain Experience
    3 / 4
  • Power
    3 / 4
  • Endurance
    4 / 4
  • Psyche
    3 / 4

The Senda ferrada - the Romanesque expression for Via ferrata - on the Piz Mitgel (the northernmost peak of the Bergüner Stöcke) is not a short route for adrenaline rushes after the morning coffee or before the after-work beer, but is a full mountain experience: combining a stepp ferrata on a 350 metre high south-west face with the ascent of a three-thousand-metre mountain, which offers not only a fantastic panoramic view of the mountains of Graubünden and far beyond, but also reveals deep views of its green valleys; enduring fitness and concentration will be need to return there ... Nicola Foglia, hotelier of Sporthotel Cresta in Savognin, and Geni Ballat, a mountain guide from the neighbouring village of Parsonz, installed the via ferrata in 2005. Twelve weeks of work, 220 steps, 1 kilometre of steel cables, 60,000 francs. It takes a logical route through the wall.

Route description

Approach
"Senda verticala" ferrata
The via ferrata climbs to the left through the eye-catching diagonal corner into the "Amfiteater". A big traverse under the Pare melna (yellow wall) leads over to overhanging cracks. Muscle power required here! Another short diagonal ledge leads to the top; and in a few steps you'll arrive at the Piramida (2752 m, 3½ hours). From here either continue on the Senda finale (see Senda diagonala) to the summit or descend again on the Senda diagonala.
Descent on the Senda diagonala
Either descend the Senda diagonala or take the Senda finala to the summit.

Additional information

Character

K4 for the 350 meter high Senda verticala on the Piramida (2752 m), crux K4 + (short overhang - therefore the route is also called Senda forza: for this place you have to save some strength and courage). Iron steps and hand holds were only drilled where necessary; This means a lot of rock contact with the feet, while the hands can (and must) use the safety cable to move around. The Senda verticala is in the shade long for a long time in the morning.

 

K1 with short points K2 for the 200 meter high Senda diagonala, the descent route from the Piramida; however, it can also be used for the ascent to the Piz Mitgel.

 

K1 for the 80-meter-high Senda finala, the highest secured path to the summit cross. Between the Piramida and the last cables are 330 metres of walking on gravel, on a reasonably well marked, but almost always slippery path; expect snow in spring. Telescopic ski poles and sturdy hiking boots are worthwhile. A helmet is definitely necessary for the via ferrata; Rockfall can never be ruled out on the Piz Mitgel, the Eiger of the Bergüner Stöcke. The complete via ferrata equipment can be rented on site.

Time

From the Piramida, descend the Senda diagonala, or take the Senda finale to Piz Mitgel (Reversed for the descent).

Signalisation

Well marked

Descent

Senda diagonala.

Author

Daniel Anker

Daniel Anker is a Bernese author and photographer. The historian has written around 40 ski tour, hiking, via ferrata and mountain bike guide books as well as detailed monographs on individual peaks in Switzerland.

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