Diavolo Via Ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Diavolo Via Ferrata Tüfelstalboden 1890 m

  • Difficulty
    K2-3
  • Ascent
    1:45 h, 470 m
  • Mountain Experience
    1 / 4
  • Power
    2 / 4
  • Endurance
    1 / 4
  • Psyche
    1 / 4

When you hear a rumble and BOOM from Andermatt, you know its the Swiss army out practicing again. They've been training here since time immemorial: the Gotthard region (the former fortress of the Confederates) is close by; a portrait of General Guisan hangs in (almost) every dining room between Lake Uri and Hospental. Unfortunately, fighting has always been a way of life in Switzerland; both against foreign enemies and against nature. When the Gotthard tunnel was being constructed during the 70s in order to connect a modern, united Switzerland, the iconic landmark: the "Teufelsstein" or "Devil's Stone", which stood in the way, was at risk of being dynamited. Local council intervened however, and instead of blowing the stone up, or building the road around it, (being Swiss) the decision was eventually taken to move it ... all 2000 tonnes of it! 127m further north and resting 3.3 m higher, this iconic boulder, now with three flags on top, can still be seen today as you drive along the Gotthard road towards its 17km tunnel (world's longest tunnel from 1980-2000). Also of historic interest is the Suvorov Monument, named the Russian General who fought against the French here in 1799, but built to commemorate all who those who died, on both sides of the fighting. In September 1997, after 90 working days, the modest Via ferrata del Diavolo (devil) was built. Since then, tens of thousands have climbed up this route, which has 700 meters of wire rope, 265 artificial steps and two ladders, to the Tüfelstalboden, where the Uri flag flutters.

Route description

Approach
Via ferrata del Diavolo
A steel cable leads leftwards to the first steep section; steep, but well secured. Climb the prominent rocky ridge, into more stepped terrain, with alternating rock steps and grassy ledges. Excellent views of the Schöllenen and its winding roads, which shrink as you gain height and become toy size. One particularly large rock step takes you into the main part of the wall, where a long grass ledge leads diagonally up and left to the final challenges; a broad gully and a final exposed rock rib. At the top of this you'll find a guest book and tap[?]). One last vertical ladder brings you onto the Tüfelstalboden (ca. 1860 m); a little higher up, the Uri flag marks a perfect resting spot and look out.
Descent

Additional information

Character

One of the first official via ferratas in Switzerland, built by soldiers stationed in Andermatt. This pleasurable route often follows grassy ledges (a few too many for those tougher "ferrastis") - a pity considering the marvellous granite flanks all around; it is well suited for beginners. In wet conditions, a visit to this route can be a rather spongey affair. And then there's the area's rich history, from the Teufelsstein, to the Napoleonic wars to the Swiss army todday. Kit can be rented from Alpina Sport in Andermatt.

Time

Total time: 3 hrs. Appraoch: ¼ hrs. Via ferrata: 1¾ hrs. Descent: 1 hr.

Signalisation

Marked.

History

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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