Northeast Ridge / or via the Chimney | Alpinism

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- Northeast Ridge / or via the Chimney
Northeast Ridge / or via the Chimney

Northeast Ridge / or via the Chimney (Normal route) Bös Fulen 2801 m

Difficulty

PD+, 2a
Ascent

5–7 h, 1540 m
Descent

4–6 h, 1540 m

The route is technically simple, but at times exceptionally exposed. The variant through the chimney is more demanding and, if there are several parties, there is a risk of falling rocks.

Bös Fulen with the two route options. (09/2018) © Hansueli Rhyner

Route description

Braunwald - Unter Bützi - Ober Boden

Follow the footpath via Gysenegg, Hanenegg and Oberstafel towards Gumen. At Oberstafel take the left path towards Untere Bützi (2078 m). From Untere Bützi take the right-hand footpath straight up a broad grassy ridge to Ober Boden and P. 2262.

Ober Boden - Snow filed - Ledge - Northeast Ridge - Bös Fulen

Shortly after Ober Boden, P. 2262, (where the blue-marked trail slightly descends to the right) leave the trail and follow the grassy ridge in a north-westerly direction to the Schaeferhuette below point 2469. Follow the traces and occasional markings with orange dots and dashes to the moraine and keep north-westerly to the snowfield (late in the season only remnants of firn are left). Climb through the firn basin (later in the year often without snow) at approx. 2600 m keeping to the right (north-east) towards the upper edge of the gully sloping down to Bösbächi (Gross Risi). Climb the wide, rubble-covered band of rock that leads to the northeastern end of the summit ridge (P. 2757). Follow the long Northeast Ridge, which has only two short hard sections to reach the summit.

Variant: the Chimney

From the snow flank, climb up to the high point of the initial rocky slabs into a corner beneath the southeastern wall. The melting of the old snow field makes the transition into rock increasingly irksome. In the upper corner of the debris covered slabs you will find the start of the chimney, which leads up into the summit rocks. At one point after the chimney there is a grassy band ascending off to the left. Follow this beneath the summit, until you can cut back right over scree and slabby rock ribs directly to the summit.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Braunwald Standseilbahn, Bergstation (1256 m)

Get there Google Maps

Braunwald

Time: Taking the Gumenbahn reduces the ascent and descent time by about 1½ hours.

From the Gumen (cable car) mountain station it is still 900 meters to the top!

Difficulty: This tour is somewhere between a very tough hike (T5) and a very light alpine tour. The difficulty varies depending on snow conditions on the south wall, as well as those on the Northeast Ridge. Crampons / ice axes are needed depending on the circumstances. The variant through the chimney is more demanding (climbing up to the third degree of difficulty), partly crumbly and in case of several parties at risk of falling rocks.

Waypoints

Gumen, Bergstation (1900 m)

Alternative start point, if you take the cable car.

See website " www.braunwald.ch/Aktuell/Bahnen-Sommerbericht/Kombibahn-Gumen-Braunwald " for details.