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From the Station Klein Matterhorn (W-Summit) (Normal route) Breithorn (Zermatt), Westgipfel / Hauptgipfel 4164 m
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- Difficulty
- F, I
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- Ascent
- 1:45–2:15 h, 370 m
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- Descent
- 19 m
Very popular tour, usually a wide trail leads to the summit. The right variation is less often done, although better conditions prevail there. Worthwhile is the mini traverse : right route up, left route down.
Route description
Station Klein Matterhorn - Breithorn
The Klein Matterhorn station can be reached by cable car from Zermatt. From the tunnel (3817 m), descend to the Firnsattel (3793 m). Now turn left (ENE) in an arc to the foot of the S flank. This is often firn covered, but can be icy at times. After crossing the bergschrund, trend leftwards to reach the W-ridge, left of the summit, then follow this the top of the Breithorn (4164 m).
Variante: Fuss der S-Flanke - Breithorn
From the foot of the S-flank, climb diagonally to the right to reach the ESE-ridge just above a saddle (4085 m). Now turn left (WNW) on the gentle ridge to reach the highest point (4164 m).
Descent
Down the ascent route, or the ascent variant.
Additional information
- Departure point
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Klein Matterhorn, Bergstation (3817 m)
Informationen zur Seilbahn Zermatt–Klein Matterhorn: www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten
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- History
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Henry Maynard with Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean-Baptiste Erin and Jean-Jacques Erin, Jean Gras, 13. August 1813.
