From Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (SSW-Flank) (Normal route) Capanna Margherita (Regina Margherita) 4554 m
- F, I
- 3:30–4:30 h, 980 m
- 50 m
Beautiful glacier tour, but heavily crevassed.
From the Capanna Gnifetti (3625 m), climb northwards over the Lysgletscher, passing left of Bivacco Giordano (P. 4167), before bearing right (east) to gain the less defined, eastern saddle of the Lisjoch (about 4245 m). Now turn to NE and traverse beneath the Parrotspitze (4434 m). Best to keep height and contour round, as if heading for the Seserjoch (4299 m), before curving back NW and climb up in the broad hollow to reach Colle Gnifetti (4455 m).
From Colle Gnifetti, climb south over a short firn slope, then back NE onto the ridge and Punta Gnifetti (4554 m, Cap. Regina Margherita), 4 hrs (4½hrs from Rif. Città die Mantova).