Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From Rifugio Giovanni Gnifetti (SSW-Flank) (Normal route) Capanna Margherita (Regina Margherita) 4554 m

  • Difficulty
    F, I
  • Ascent
    3:30–4:30 h, 980 m
  • Descent
    50 m

Beautiful glacier tour, but heavily crevassed.

Route description

Rifugio Gnifetti CAI - Colle Gnifetti

From the Capanna Gnifetti (3625 m), climb northwards over the Lysgletscher, passing left of Bivacco Giordano (P. 4167), before bearing right (east) to gain the less defined, eastern saddle of the Lisjoch (about 4245 m). Now turn to NE and traverse beneath the Parrotspitze (4434 m). Best to keep height and contour round, as if heading for the Seserjoch (4299 m), before curving back NW and climb up in the broad hollow to reach Colle Gnifetti (4455 m).

Colle Gnifetti - Capanna Regina Margherita

From Colle Gnifetti, climb south over a short firn slope, then back NE onto the ridge and Punta Gnifetti (4554 m, Cap. Regina Margherita), 4 hrs (4½hrs from Rif. Città die Mantova).

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Don Giovanni Gnifetti, Giuseppe Farinetti, Giacomo and Giovanni Giordani, Cristoforo Grober with three porters, 9. August 1842.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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