From the Monte-Rosa-Hütte via the Grenzgletscher | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Monte-Rosa-Hütte via the Grenzgletscher (Normal route) Capanna Margherita (Regina Margherita) 4554 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    6–7 h, 1670 m

Since the approach leads northwards, the ascent of Colle Gnifetti is also included.

Route description

Monte Rosahütte - Grenzgletscher
From the Monte-Rosa-Hütte (2882 m) follow the moraine path up to the right and enter the Grenzgletscher SE from Ober Plattje (3109 m).
Grenzgletscher - Colle Gnifetti
Climb first along the northeastern shore of the Grenzgletscher. The glacier is heavily crevassed, with many in the direction of the travel. Bear rightwards (south) of a prominent rock spur (3468 m). Depending on conditions you climb through the glacial basin between the rocky island at P. 3699 m (known by the locals as Topali Rocks ) and the serac zone on the right before traversing round onto the large first glacier plateau. (The route east past P. 3699 is no longer possible due to glacier recession). Due to the risk of avalanche and ice fall coming from Liskamm's north face, it is not recommended to climb south of the next major crevasse zone (3800-3900 m), but rather follow the north-east edge of the plateau and climb the broad glacial gully, which leads directly up onto the next plateau ca. 4000 m. Here bear right (southwards) to avoid the large crevasses at about 4050 m or climb towards the steep slope north beneath the Zumsteinspitze into the hollow (about 4100 m) leading up in the direction of Parrotspitze. Arc round to the northeast beneath the Seserjoch (4296 m) and make a long gentle "S" to reach the Colle Gnifetti, 6 1/2 hours.
Colle Gnifetti - Capanna Margherita
From Colle Gnifetti, climb south over a short firn slope, then back NE onto the ridge and Punta Gnifetti (4554 m, Cap. Regina Margherita), 1/4 hrs

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Don Giovanni Gnifetti, Giuseppe Farinetti, Giacomo and Giovanni Giordani, Cristoforo Grober with two porters, 9. August 1842.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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