Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Monte-Rosa-Hütte via the Grenzgletscher (Normal route) Capanna Margherita (Regina Margherita) 4554 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    6–7 h, 1670 m

Since the approach leads northwards, the ascent of Colle Gnifetti is also included.

Route description

Monte Rosahütte - Grenzgletscher

From the hut, follow the lower right-hand path onto the moraine. Continue up along the moraine crest until around 2930 m, then traverse rightwards across the flank, cross a stream in the scree covered rocks and enter onto the Grenzgletscher at about 2940 m.

Grenzgletscher - Colle Gnifetti

Climb first along the northeastern shore of the Grenzgletscher. The glacier is heavily crevassed, with many in the direction of the travel. Bear rightwards (south) of a prominent rock spur (3468 m). Depending on conditions you can either climb through the glacial basin between the rocky island at P. 3699 m (known by the locals as Topali Rocks ) and the serac zone on the right, or climb the steeper snow slope leftwards, just above P. 3699 m before traversing round onto the large first glacier plateau. Due to the risk of avalanche and ice fall coming from Liskamm's north face, it is not recommended to climb south of the next major crevasse zone (3800-3900 m), but rather follow the north-east edge of the plateau and climb the broad glacial gully, which leads directly up onto the next plateau ca. 4000 m. Here bear right (southwards) to avoid the large crevasses at about 4050 m, and into the hollow (about 4100 m) leading up in the direction of Parrotspitze. Arc round to the northeast beneath the Seserjoch (4296 m) and make a long gentle "S" to reach the Colle Gnifetti, 6 1/2 hours.

Colle Gnifetti - Capanna Margherita

From Colle Gnifetti, climb south over a short firn slope, then back NE onto the ridge and Punta Gnifetti (4554 m, Cap. Regina Margherita), 1/4 hrs

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Don Giovanni Gnifetti, Giuseppe Farinetti, Giacomo and Giovanni Giordani, Cristoforo Grober with two porters, 9. August 1842.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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