Burgkante | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Burgkante Fieschertal 1700 m

Difficulty

5b (4c)
Pitches / Height Difference

11 P / 2–3:30 h, 200 m
Exposition / Rock Type

SW / Gneiss
Altitude start

1575 m

The Burgkante - a great classic of the Fieschertal - offers well bolted slab climbing with great ambience. The red glacier-polished slabs hold numerous terraces on which trees are able to take root.

Route description

Approach Burgkante

One can approach from Fieschertal, or from the Burghütte. Follow cairns from the main trail to the start of the route. This is on a rocky plateau about 50 m south of the hut path at an altitude of 1575 m. It is reached via a small fixed rope, the bolts on the starting slab are very obvious.

Related route: Zustieg Klettergebiet Fieschertal

Burgkante

See Topo.

Descent Burgkante

Related route: Descent Burgkante

Additional information

Protection: Very well equipped
Rope: 50 m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: -
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: -
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Difficulty: The rope lengths are relatively short (20 to 25 m). The first 6 pitches are roughly equal in difficulty.

Rock Type / Quality: The gneiss in bombproof but polished smooth by the glacier. Expect much smearing (and swearing).

Protection / Material: Cams are not required, but can make run-outs shorter in places.

Descent: For the descent from the summit, walk in a northeasterly direction over some ladders to the hiking path, which soon leads to the Burghütte. (Alternatively: a cairn by the 9th belay stance marks the start of an abseil piste through the north face (3 x 25m)

Waypoints

Burghütte (1751 m)
Great pitstop or viewing platform in the Fieschertal.

History: The route was bolted with inox in 2014 by Albrecht Marcel. (material donated by Walliser Mountain Guide Association's bolt fund). Belay stances: fitted with 'munirings' (large ring bolts) except for stance 7 (2 bolts).