Graustock Via Ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Graustock (NW)
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Via ferrata
- Graustock Via Ferrata
Graustock Via Ferrata

Graustock Via Ferrata Graustock (NW) 2662 m

Difficulty

K4-5, T4
Ascent

2 h, 260 m
Mountain Experience

2 / 4
Power

3 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

3 / 4

Although it was the Engelberg mountain guides who built the Graustock via ferrata, it can just as easily be reached from Gental on the Bernese side, taking the lift up to Jochpass (2207 m). The route follows the south-east ridge of the Graustock, crossing the Schafberg and another, nameless tower which provides the crux of the Ferrata: a steep descent via a slabby pillar: around 70 m, with plenty of air under the soles. If you feel overwhelmed, you can descend off-track (only in good visibility!) through the stony Schaftal to the white-blue-white marked foot path.

Deep views from the Engelberg via Ferrata. © Jürgen Frank

Airy, to say the least. The central pillar (K4/5). © Jürgen Frank

Grey on the "Grey"stock © Eugen E. und Hildegard Hüsler

Route description

Approach

Graustock Via Ferrata

The first steep, intimidating section (ca. 20 metres in height) turns out to be quite harmless. Behind the ridge of the Red Nollen (about 2310 m) you must unclip from the cables and follow a path once more, which leads you to the next 'clip-in' point at the start of the Schafberg (2522 m). Climb over this and repeat. The following track through the scree brings you to the central pillar of the ridge, the highlight of the Ferrata, towering steeply into the sky. Iron rungs, a few stakes and a continuous safety cable provides pleasurable, but very airy climbing above the void. At the top of the pillar (rest and photo opportunity) the summit of the Graustock comes into view. Descend slightly over the broad, debris covered ridge before starting up the final summit ridge. Cables help with two short, steep rock steps, as well as the final metres to the top of the Graustock (2662 m).

Descent

Additional information

Character: K4-5, with a real alpine feel. A variable route: the first two climbing sections seem easy, the third one grabs you by the proverbials. A steep mountain path crossed with a via ferrata, with descent over tallus and a short, unsecured rock step (grade I) to negotiate. Great views from the ridge into the Engelberg valley. In early summer, snow remnants add spice. Only go in safe, stable weather, not at thunderstorm.

Time: Total time: 4 hours (with descent to Engstlenalp 4¾ hrs).

Jochpass - via ferrata - Graustock: 2½ hrs

Graustock-Schaftal-Jochpass: 1½ hrs

Graustock-Schaftal-Engstlenalp" 2¼ hrs.

If starting from Engstlenalp, the total time increases to ca. 6 hrs.