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From Stechelberg (Normal route) Mutthornhütte SAC 2901 m

  • Difficulty
    F
  • Ascent
    7–8 h, 2000 m

The 2898m high Mutthornhütte of the SAC Section Weissenstein can be reached from four valleys: from the Kandertal via Gasterntal, from Kiental, Lauterbrunnental and also from Lötschental on the Vallais side. All approaches are long and classified as light with the exception of access from Kiental. All four hut trails cross large glaciers where parties will need to rope up. Just a visit to the Mutthorn hut with a different ascent and descent gives a varied two-day tour. If that's not enough, light peaks in the immediate vicinity of the hut (the Mutthorn 3038m and Petersgrat 3202m), as well as more demanding tours (Tschingelhorn 3495m and Lauterbrunnen Breithorn 3780m) make the Mutthornhütte an interesting starting point that you'll be keen to revisit. The ascent from Lauterbunnental described here (ca. 7 hours) can be shortened by staying in one of the mountain hotels along the route (Trachsellauenen 1 hour in, or the Gasthaus Tschingelhorn/ Hotel Obersteinberg 2 hours in).

Route description

Stechelberg 910 m to the end of the blue-white marked path ca. 2200 m
From Stechelberg Postauto (bus) stop, 910 m) hike up to Trachsellauenen at 1202 m (Taxi transport is possible to this point). Now on the good way to the mountain guest house 'Tschingelhorn' (1678 m) and on to Hotel Obersteinberg (1778 m). From there follow the marked mountain path to Oberhoresee (2065 m), and continue on the white-blue-white marked path onto the old lateral moraine of the Tschingel Glacier.
End of the blue-white marked path ca. 2200m - Mutthornhütte
Now cross the Tschingelfirn (glacier) in a west, later southerly direction to the final steep rise to the left (east) side of the Mutthorn. This final section contains several large crevasses that need to be approached with caution. Later in the season they may be more visible (clear of snow) but increasingly difficult to navigate.

Additional information

Departure point

Stechelberg (910 m)

Time

Übernachten in Trachsellauenen: 1 Std kürzer, ab Tschingelhorn und Obersteinberg 2 Std kürzer.

Waypoints

Tschingelpass (2774 m)

Die Variante führt über den Tschingelpass, wo die Route über die Gamchilücke zur Gspaltenhornhütte abzweigt.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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