Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

South Ridge (Normal route) Pizzo Rotondo 3192 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3a
  • Ascent
    4–5 h, 1210 m
  • Descent
    3–4 h, 1210 m

High above the Bedretto valley stands the dominant summit of Pizzo Rotondo 3192 m. The starting point for an ascent is the Capanna Piansecco, which sits in an enchanting larch forest. The South Ridge of Pizzo Rotondo provides a short but beautiful ridge climb starting at the Passo di Ruino and is also the easiest and most objectively safe route to the summit. Care must still be taken due the presence of loose blocks, but a benefit on this mountain is that it is unlikely to be over crowded. A descent down the main couloir of the south-west flank is unlikely to be wholly safe due to the high risk of rock fall, therefore having summited it is generally advised to reverse the South Ridge back to the Passo de Ruino.

Route description

From the Capanna Piansecco to the Passo di Rotondo (Rotondo Pass)

From the Capanna Piansecco (1982 m) northeasterly over alpine meadows in the direction of pt. 2348 m, which is bypassed to the east. Follow the scree slopes of Alpe Nuova, passing pt. 2492 m (again to the east) until just short of the main pass.

From Passo di Rotondo to Pizzo Rotondo

The route now curves Eastwards over boulder fields and snow slopes to reach the Passo di Ruino (2945 m). Gaining the pass can be tricky; both loose boulders and unstable rock must be carefully navigated. From the pass follow the South Ridge on generally better rock, taking the safest line available to reach below the final steeper summit cap. This can be climbed easily, either from the west or from the north.

Descent from the Summit via the Southwestflank

From the Northwestern foot of the summit tower head west, before descending down the main couloir of the southwestern flank. As previously stated, this can be dangerous, especially with parties behind. Alternatively reverse the South Ridge to regain the Passo de Ruino and the slopes of Alpe Nuova.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Waypoints
History

The first ascent was made by Josef Eggermann in August 1893.

Our recommendations

Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Hütten

Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Locarno-Lugano - 1:50'000

Landeskarten

Locarno-Lugano - 1:50'000

Price CHF 25.00
Member price CHF 22.50
Klettern Oberwallis

Klettern

Klettern Oberwallis

Price CHF 52.00
Member price CHF 44.00
Walliser Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Walliser Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Primo soccorso

Ausbildung

Primo soccorso

Price CHF 36.00
Member price CHF 29.00
Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Tourenportal Abonnemente

Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Price CHF 42.00
Lebenswelt Alpen

Ausbildung

New

Lebenswelt Alpen

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
SAC-Seidenschlafsack

Ausrüstung

SAC-Seidenschlafsack

Price CHF 75.00
Member price CHF 67.00
SAC-Taschenmesser

Ausrüstung

New

SAC-Taschenmesser

Price CHF 42.00
Member price CHF 38.00
feedback