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South Ridge

South Ridge (Normal route) Pizzo Rotondo 3192 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3a
Ascent

4–5 h, 1210 m
Descent

3–4 h, 1210 m

High above the Bedretto valley stands the dominant summit of Pizzo Rotondo 3192 m. The starting point for an ascent is the Capanna Piansecco, which sits in an enchanting larch forest. The South Ridge of Pizzo Rotondo provides a short but beautiful ridge climb starting at the Passo di Ruino and is also the easiest and most objectively safe route to the summit. Care must still be taken due the presence of loose blocks, but a benefit on this mountain is that it is unlikely to be over crowded. A descent down the main couloir of the south-west flank is unlikely to be wholly safe due to the high risk of rock fall, therefore having summited it is generally advised to reverse the South Ridge back to the Passo de Ruino.

From the Passo di Ruino the South Ridge can be well scrutinised. (07/2012) © Arnold Barmettler

The striking fin shape of Pizzo Rotondo, as seen from the valley floor. South Ridge to the left. (09/2013) © Müller Bruno

Route description

From the Capanna Piansecco to the Passo di Rotondo (Rotondo Pass)

From the Capanna Piansecco (1982 m) northeasterly over alpine meadows in the direction of pt. 2348 m, which is bypassed to the east. Follow the scree slopes of Alpe Nuova, passing pt. 2492 m (again to the east) until just short of the main pass.

From Passo di Rotondo to Pizzo Rotondo

The route now curves Eastwards over boulder fields and snow slopes to reach the Passo di Ruino (2945 m). Gaining the pass can be tricky; both loose boulders and unstable rock must be carefully navigated. From the pass follow the South Ridge on generally better rock, taking the safest line available to reach below the final steeper summit cap. This can be climbed easily, either from the west or from the north.

Descent from the Summit via the Southwestflank

From the Northwestern foot of the summit tower head west, before descending down the main couloir of the southwestern flank. As previously stated, this can be dangerous, especially with parties behind. Alternatively reverse the South Ridge to regain the Passo de Ruino and the slopes of Alpe Nuova.