From the north (Dossenhütte) (Normal route) Ränfenhorn 3255 m
-
- Difficulty
- PD
-
- Ascent
- 3–3:30 h, 660 m
-
- Descent
- 70 m
The Ränfenhorn 3259 m is most often climbed during a hut change, either from the Dossenhütte to the Gaulihütte or from the Glecksteinhütte to the Gaulihütte and vice versa. It is a modest peak, but has a rewarding view. The route leads first to the Dossensattel. Here there are two possibilities; with or without an ascent of the Dossen. Also from the hut to the Dossensattel (saddle) there are two variations; the described route over the ridge, and an alternative way along the east flank which should only be considered under good firm snow conditions.
Route description
Dossenhütte 2663m - Tossensattel 3008m
From the Dossenhütte (2663 m) follow tracks beneath the first rocks of the ridge in a south-westerly direction for apporximately 100m. Now tun right through a short gap to gain the ridge itself. Follow the ridge over several ups and downs to P. 3032 m. On the steeper sections here the route is equipped with cables and and artificial steps. The descent from here to the Dossensattel (saddle) can be down climbed or abseiled (a 30m rope is sufficient).
Tossensattel 3008m - Ränfenhorn 3255m
This trail is slightly easier than the variant over the summit of Dossen, when the rocks are free from snow: From the Dossensattel (saddle) follow a band, initially descending, along the NW-flank of the Doseen. This leads, crossing several ribs and runnels, to the snow or boulder slope southwest of the Dossen (cairns and tracks mark the way and bolts protect the exposed bits). In late summer, the passage to the glacier can be problematic, therefore, in 2023, the mountain guide association Haslital established a new variant with bolts 40 m below the old route; see topo, start coordinates 2 655 292 / 1 166 471, approx. 3017 m. The bolts of the old access variant were left in place. As long as there is still a lot of snow on the glacier, it may be easier to reach the glacier from the old variant by abseiling. In the ascent (south-north direction), however, the new variant is recommended.
Then follow the glacier south to the Ränfenjoch (3043 m) and on to the moderately steep snow slope of the Ränfenhorn. Up this (southeast direction) to the summit rocks and over these to the highest point.
[Note: If you come from the Ränfenjoch, you can get onto the NW flank of the Dossen by descending northwards below the rocks of the Dossen S ridge, to leave the glacier's eastern edge around 3020 m.]
Variant over the Dossen summit
From the saddle climb a 5m step slightly left of the ridge, and then follow the ridge more or less directly via corners and steps to the summit - 1hr from the saddle and grade III at most.
From here descend the snow and/or boulder field in a south-westerly direction to gain the upper eastern edge of the Rosenlauigletscher (glacier) at around 3020m. (2022 fixed rope or abseil).Now trend southwards to gain the Ränfenjoch 3040 m and on to the moderately steep snow slope of the Ränfenhorn. Climb this (southeast direction) to gain the summit rocks north of the summit, then follow these to the highest point (3255 m). Alternative: Instead of descending south-west onto the glacier, the Dossen can be crossed in its entirety via P.3144, past several bivouac sites down to the Ränfenjoch where you enter the glacier.
Descent
Same as Ascent route.
Additional information
- Departure point
-
-
- Waypoints
-
-
-
Wird auf der Variante überschritten.
-