Via the Fortezza | Alpinism | Rifugio Marco e Rosa | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Via the Fortezza Rifugio Marco e Rosa 3597 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, I
  • Ascent
    4–4:30 h, 1130 m
  • Descent
    500 m

Nowadays the most common and safest access to Rifugio Marco e Rosa. The climbing on the Fortezza is marked and secured with iron ring-bolts (abseiling points for the descent, whereby the whole Fortezza can also be climbed). The route is considered 'light'. But since it leads over glaciers, the danger of falling is to be considered. Roping up is a must.

Route description

Diavolezza - Vadret Pers

From the Diavolezza, 2972 m, follow a footpath south first on the blue-white marked path, which leads to the via ferrata at Piz Trovat, then directly down to the Vadret Pers (about 2700 m).

Vadret Pers - Rifugio Marco e Rosa

Cross the glacier, heading southwest towards Rifugi dals Chamuotschs and climb over gentle firn slopes towards P. 3185. Continue south along the Firn Ridge (the rocks of P. 3371, can be bypassed on the east side) to the Fortezza. Climb the first rock step on the E-side (about 15 m) then follow a band to the W-side. Climb the upper rocks on the on the W-side and arrive a P. 3481. Continue in a generally south direction up the glaciated humpback to the Bellavistaterrace (at about 3700 m), turn SW and traverse the Bellavista terrace (slightly rising) to about 3760 m below the highest Bellavista Peak, P. 3920. From here, drop down to the west on a steep slope and cross a crevasse zone to approx. 3600 m (crevasses in the direction of travel). Continue below Crast'Agüzza until you reach Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza and Rifugio Marco e Rosa.

Variant 1: from Chamanna da Boval

This variant is not only the best and safest route from the Chamanna da Boval CAS to the Fuorcla Crast 'Agüzza, but also serves as access to Piz Palü, the Bellavista and the Piz Bernina from the Boval side. From the Chamanna da Boval 2494m, a good path leads south to join a moraine ridge and follows this to below P. 2653. Here you leave the moraine and head eastwards across the glacier to the northern foot of the Isla Persa. Crest a moraine and pass a small lake, before turning sharply right (southeast) and ascending the long couloir that leads to the Vadret da la Fortezza. Climb up this mini glacier, SW to join the main route at its highest point.

Variant 2: from Morteratsch

The variant over the Isla Persa can also be reached directly from Morteratsch (train station). This variant is mainly used in descent. From Morteratsch (train station), take the wide path southwards over the moraines of the Morteratsch glacier. Signs show where the glacier tongue used to reach at different times. Depending on conditions, curve slowly eastwards towards the obvious Isla Persa, which separates the two upper glacier valleys. Pass a small lake, and continue straight (southeast) up the long couloir which leads to the Vadret da la Fortezza. Climb up this mini glacier SW and join the main route at its highest point.

Additional information

Departure point

Diavolezza, summit station (2972 m)

www.diavolezza.ch

Time

About half an hour longer from the Chamanna da Boval and two hours longer from Morteratsch.

Waypoints

Chamanna da Boval CAS (2495 m)

Ausgangspunkt Variante 1

Morteratsch (1896 m)

Ausgangspunkt der Variante 2

History

First ascent of the the Crast'Agüzza made by J.F. Hardy and E. S. Kennedy with Peter and Florian Jenny and Alexander Flury on July 23, 1861. The first traverse was done by F. F. Tuckett and E. N. Buxton with Peter Jenny, Christian Michel and Franz Bineram July 28, 1864.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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