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Via the Fortezza Rifugio Marco e Rosa 3597 m
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- Difficulty
- PD+, I
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- Ascent
- 4–4:30 h, 1130 m
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- Descent
- 500 m
Nowadays the most common and safest access to Rifugio Marco e Rosa. The climbing on the Fortezza is marked and secured with iron ring-bolts (abseiling points for the descent, whereby the whole Fortezza can also be climbed). The route is considered 'light'. But since it leads over glaciers, the danger of falling is to be considered. Roping up is a must.
Route description
From the Diavolezza, 2972 m, follow a footpath south first on the blue-white marked path, which leads to the via ferrata at Piz Trovat, then directly down to the Vadret Pers (about 2700 m).
Cross the glacier, heading southwest towards Rifugi dals Chamuotschs and climb over gentle firn slopes towards P. 3185. Continue south along the Firn Ridge (the rocks of P. 3371, can be bypassed on the east side) to the Fortezza. Climb the first rock step on the E-side (about 15 m) then follow a band to the W-side. Climb the upper rocks on the on the W-side and arrive a P. 3481. Continue in a generally south direction up the glaciated humpback to the Bellavistaterrace (at about 3700 m), turn SW and traverse the Bellavista terrace (slightly rising) to about 3760 m below the highest Bellavista Peak, P. 3920. From here, drop down to the west on a steep slope and cross a crevasse zone to approx. 3600 m (crevasses in the direction of travel). Continue below Crast'Agüzza until you reach Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza and Rifugio Marco e Rosa.
This variant is not only the best and safest route from the Chamanna da Boval CAS to the Fuorcla Crast 'Agüzza, but also serves as access to Piz Palü, the Bellavista and the Piz Bernina from the Boval side. From the Chamanna da Boval 2494m, a good path leads south to join a moraine ridge and follows this to below P. 2653. Here you leave the moraine and head eastwards across the glacier to the northern foot of the Isla Persa. Crest a moraine and pass a small lake, before turning sharply right (southeast) and ascending the long couloir that leads to the Vadret da la Fortezza. Climb up this mini glacier, SW to join the main route at its highest point.
The variant over the Isla Persa can also be reached directly from Morteratsch (train station). This variant is mainly used in descent. From Morteratsch (train station), take the wide path southwards over the moraines of the Morteratsch glacier. Signs show where the glacier tongue used to reach at different times. Depending on conditions, curve slowly eastwards towards the obvious Isla Persa, which separates the two upper glacier valleys. Pass a small lake, and continue straight (southeast) up the long couloir which leads to the Vadret da la Fortezza. Climb up this mini glacier SW and join the main route at its highest point.
Additional information
- Departure point
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Diavolezza, summit station (2972 m)
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- Time
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About half an hour longer from the Chamanna da Boval and two hours longer from Morteratsch.
- Waypoints
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Chamanna da Boval CAS (2495 m)
Ausgangspunkt Variante 1
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Morteratsch (1896 m)
Ausgangspunkt der Variante 2
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- History
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First ascent of the the Crast'Agüzza made by J.F. Hardy and E. S. Kennedy with Peter and Florian Jenny and Alexander Flury on July 23, 1861. The first traverse was done by F. F. Tuckett and E. N. Buxton with Peter Jenny, Christian Michel and Franz Bineram July 28, 1864.
