From Brè via Denti della Vecchia to Capanna Pairolo | Mountain hiking

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Home
Huts and Tours
- SAC Route Portal
- Subscribe to the SAC Route Portal
SAC Route Portal
Sasso Grande (Denti della Vecchia)
- Mountain hiking
Mountain hiking
- From Brè via Denti della Vecchia to Capanna Pairolo
From Brè via Denti della Vecchia to Capanna Pairolo

From Brè via Denti della Vecchia to Capanna Pairolo (Normal route) Sasso Grande (Denti della Vecchia) 1490 m

Difficulty

T5
Ascent

2:30 h, 1120 m
Descent

3:15 h, 560 m

The Dolomites of Lugano

On a trip through South Tyrol in 1789 Déodat Guy Sylvain Tancrède Gratet de Dolomieu, a French nobleman and geologist, collected rock samples, which picqued his curiosity, and had them analysed. The result of the analysis was a so far unknown composition of calcium carbonat and magnesium. Thus a new mineral was found, which was called dolomite to honour its discoverer. Therefore, the Dolomites, this unique mountain range in the north-east of Italy, were given their name from a Frenchman. Denti della Vecchia, too («teeth of the old lady») are largely made of dolomite. The magnesium is responsible for the bright colour, and especially in late fall the rocks are so shiny when lit by direct sunshine that as a climber you are virtually blinded by them. For generations these rocks have been climbed on intensively. The cradle of rock climbing in the canton of Ticino, formerly called Canne d’Organo («organ pipes»), was discovered in the thirties; today there are hundreds of routes of all grades of difficulty.

Greetings from father Lenin. © David Coulin

Sasso Grande. The easiest route (presented here) to the limestone pinnacle leads on the steep face overgrown with dwarf pines left of the summit. (10/2011) © Marco Volken

The jagged Denti della Vecchia (view from the north, in the centre of the photo is Sasso Grande). (05/2015) © Marco Volken

At the destination: the Capanna Pairolo. (10/2011) © Marco Volken

Route description

Brè – Monte Boglia

From Brè hike on a marked trail through the scenic village centre north-eastward to about 960 m, crossing a road several times. Here a trail branches off right and leads to the rib between Brè and Sasso Rosso (1294 m). At a bifurcation take the ascending, occasionally steep trail, bypass Sasso Rosso to the left and follow the forested ridge falling off to the east (slightly exposed). The trail winds up to a shoulder (ca. 1460 m) and finally leads on the bare ridge to Monte Boglia (1516 m).

Monte Boglia – Passo Streccione

From Monte Boglia on occasionally high steps zigzag down to the depression of Pian di Scagn (1173 m). With a short bend to the left and then along the border or just a few steps inside Italian territory hike through a beautiful forest. Across Bocchetta di Brumea (1262 m) and past P. 1431 you reach the heart of Denti della Vecchia and Passo Streccione (1399 m, also called «Bocchetta») located to the south-east of Sasso Grande.

Summit ascent Sasso Grande

From Passo Streccione ascend on a faint path (marked with yellow circles) north-westward to a small saddle, then descend a few metres on the other side and keep left below a rock face (climbing routes equipped with spits). Now do not aim at the distinct gully, but hike left on a narrow path to the foot of the east face of Sasso Grande. On a series of steep steps scramble up (some climbing moves in grade I required, assisted by dwarf pines), keeping to the left. The terrain is very steep, but due to the vegetation you do not feel exposed. Thus you reach a shoulder, where you scramble to the right, overcoming a deep crevasse with an impressive, but actually not very difficult straddling step, and reach the summit of Sasso Grande (1490 m), the highest point of Denti della Vecchia. On the same route, which, as usual, is more difficult on the descent, return to Passo Streccione (from the col and back 45 min.).

Passo Streccione – Capanna Pairolo

From Passo Streccione on the rather shady Swiss face hike more or less horizontally north-eastward. Around Sasso Palazzo the trail is lined with limestone walls offering countless climbing routes. Briefly before Bassa d’Ogé switch to the more sunny Italian side and continue to the boundary stone 7L. Now switch back to the Swiss side of the ridge and descend to Capanna Pairolo (1349 m) with its splendid location.

Additional information

Departure point

Brè sopra Lugano (785 m)

Get there Google Maps

Brè, Paese

End point

Capanna Pairolo (1347 m)

Time: Brè – Monte Boglia 2 h 30 min.

Monte Boglia – Sasso Grande – Capanna Pairolo 3 h 15 min.

Difficulty / Material: The difficulties are limited to the very steep, rocky ascent to Sasso Grande, which requires easy climbing (and which must be scrambled down from, too). The rest are easy, marked trails with some slightly exposed passages (T3–), especially around Denti della Vecchia.

Waypoints

Monte Boglia / Colma Regia (1516 m)

Solitary, deforested summit with a panoramic view across the mountains around Lugano on to Monte Rosa and Finsteraarhorn

Bocchetta (Passo Streccione) (1399 m)

Catering and overnight stay

Grotto Alpe Bolla (1128 m)

Grotto Alpe Bolla (1128 m), located a few minutes below Pian di Scagn to the left-hand side, offers hearty local cuisine (open May to October, closed on Mondays; overnight stay available on request).