Schwarzhorn Via Ferrata (Grindelwald) | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Schwarzhorn Via Ferrata (Grindelwald) Schwarzhoren / Schwarzhorn (BE) 2928 m

  • Difficulty
    K2-3, T3
  • Ascent
    1:15 h, 200 m
  • Mountain Experience
    2 / 4
  • Power
    1 / 4
  • Endurance
    2 / 4
  • Psyche
    1 / 4

If the Schwarzhorn hides somewhat 'in the shadow' of the Faulhorn (2681 m), despite equally impressive panoramic views, then it is probably because the way up is (just) a little more challenging. Also there's no restaurant waiting at the top! The Schwarzhorn then, remains a destination for the self-catering mountain goer. For the last twenty years or so, some of them may not only have had food and drink in their backpack, but a via ferrata set as well; a simple via ferrata, with a handful of steel cables and ladders was installed on the southwest ridge in 1995. A far easier but less adventurous option (since 2015) is the "First Cliff Walk", a circular route at the First gondola station consisting of a suspended platform circumventing the rocky summit there and a 'diving board' style viewpoint (to do this one, neither a ferrata set or hiking boots are needed).

Route description

Approach
Schwarzhorn-Klettersteig
Follow the SW ridge to the almost vertical tower (steel cables). 40 rungs help to overcome this, then follow cables along to second, steep section. Three more ladders, arranged almost vertically and staggered, provide that 'Ferrata Feeling'. The final summit ridge is easy.
Top of the ferrata - Summit
Further cables protect the slabby sections of ridge and harmless steps leading to the summit.
Descent Kleiner Klettersteig to Leukerbad
Follow the normal route along the south ridge.

Additional information

Character

Moderately difficult via ferrata with a fairly long approach. The staggered ladders are very airy, the steel cables are not always ideal. The descent also requires surefootedness. Grandiose summit panorama.

Time

Total time: 5 hrs. First - Grossi Chrinne: 2 hrs. Grossi Chrinne - Schwarzhorn: 1¼ hrs. Schwarzhorn Südgrat - First: 1¾ hrs.

If you start the tour on Grosse Scheidegg, the total walking time is 6½ hrs.

Signalisation

Yellow markings, white-red-white and white-blue-white marks on the footpaths.

Descent

This follows the south ridge of the mountain, which is initially almost as wide as the main road down in Grindelwald, but then gets narrower. A first tower is avoided on the right via a slightly exposed ledge, a second must be taken direct. 200 meters below the summit, at the saddle before Gemschberg (2659 m), the way turns right. Descend in zigzags on the scree slope (in early summer snow) into the basin below the Schwarzhorn. Follow the road to Schreckfeld of First.

Waypoints

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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