NE-Ridge | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

NE-Ridge Spazzacaldeira Ostwand 2180 m

Difficulty

4c (4c)
Pitches

10 P
Exposition / Rock Type

N / Granite
Altitude start

2120 m

The easiest route on the wall. Grassy ledges alternate with beautiful pitches. The route is often climbed.

Spazzacaldeira, Start of Nr. 17, NE-Ridge zum Dente © Thomas Wälti

On the first proper pitch of Spazzacaldeira-NE-Ridge. Great arete climbing. (07/2018) © Thomas Wälti

On NE-Ridge zum Dente. (07/2011) © Thomas Wälti

Dente (tooth), Fiamma und Spazzacaldeira. (2011) © Thomas Wälti

In the key passage, 6b crack, in the Dente normal route (08/2008) © Thomas Wälti

Abseil from Dente. (2008) © Thomas Wälti

On the small abseil at the end of the NE-Ridge route. Dente in the background.. (07/2018) © Thomas Wälti

Route description

Approach to NE-Ridge

From the Albigna cable car station follow the old concrete road around the first bend and up to the base of the wall. A track leads off back right along the base to the top of a vegetated scree cone. At the top of this is the start of the NE-ridge.

Related route: Approach to the cliff base.

NE-Grat to the Dente (tooth)

For roBoth can be climbed optionally (Fiamma a 25m long pitch 5c+, the Dente normal route requires two pitches of climbing up to 6b). Details at the linked waypoint.ute info see Topo.

From the highest point of the NE-Ridge - to the descent of Spazzacaldeira

Climb between the Dente and another small tower then continue slightly downhill onto a ledge system that traverses the uppermost part of the east wall. Signs of a track then lead uphill again to the highest point of the Spazzacaldeira, P. 2487.

Climbing La Fiamma / Il Dente / and main summit.

Both can be climbed optionally (Fiamma a 25m long pitch 5c+, the Dente normal route requires two pitches of climbing up to 6b). Details at the linked route.

Related route: Fiamma und Dente

Descent from Spazzacaldeira / La Fiamma / Il Dente

Additional information

Protection: Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 12
Stoppers: -
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: +
Abseiling possible: -
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Protection / Material: Bolted. A few medium friends.

Waypoints

La Fiamma (2487 m)

History: Alfred H. Summer, 1928

The Dente was "conquered" in 1944 by Hans Rütter and Philipp Wieland with a rope throw from the connecting ridge of the Fiamma.

When and by whom today's normal route was first climbed is no longer known.