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North Ridge (Normal route) Strahlegghorn 3461 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

4–4:30 h, 950 m
Descent

100 m

The easily accessible Strahlegghorn is a worthwhile climb due to its rewarding views of a number of 4000ers. These include the Lauteraarhorn and Schreckhorn to the north and the Mönch, Fiescherhörner and Finsteraarhorn to the south. From the Strahlegghorn it is possible to descend the south west ridge (PD) to the site of the old Strahlegghütte. The hut stood in a nice scenic spot, which was unfortunately also a nice spot for avalanches. Such severe damage to the hut in 1977 lead to it's deconstruction and it was replaced by another hut elsewhere; the Schreckhornhütte, located a little further down valley beside a protective spur.

As you follow the hut path to the Schreckhornhütte, the Strahlegghorn is nearly always visible (centre image) © Bomio Marco

The first section of the route, as seen from the Schreckhornhütte. (07/2017) © Bomio Marco

From the Strahleggpass the Strahlegghorn is easily attained via its North Ridge. Also from here starts the South West ridge of the Lauteraarhorn, from where this picture was taken. © Marco Bomio

Grandiose views of the Finsteraarhorn and the Agassizhorn. © Bomio Marco

North Ridge from Strahleggpass. © Elli Meyer

View towards the Eiger's south face (bare rock peak in the right of the image), The Mönch and the Fiescherhörner. © Bomio Marco

Route description

Schreckhornhütte to the upper end of the Gaag

From the Schreckhornhütte (2529 m) shortly follow the approach path, before descending across the moraine in a southerly direction onto the Obere Ischmeer. Follow the glacier's eastern edge for approximately 1km. Warning! Take care not to stray too early onto the eastern moraines due to the high risk of rock and ice fall from the slopes and Schreckfirn above. Before the glacier steepens and narrows and the moraine turns to steeper rock, leave the glacier and follow tracks over unpleasant screes up and left. The ideal route, marked with cairns, is difficult to find in the dark and it is advised to rehearse this section the day before a planned ascent. On entering larger blockier ground, as soon as the terrain allows keep right (south) and follow the best tracks (interrupted by a slab with a fixed rope) towards the location of the old Strahlegghütte (now only a cairn) ¾ to 1 hr from the hut. Soon, large obvious tracks will lead you up and left once more (north east) towards the Gaagg. Before the Gaagg, the tracks lead onto a ridge. Follow this, occasionally via its left flank, until the saddle at its end, the 'Gaagg' is reached ca. 2½ to 3 hrs from the hut.

Upper end of the Gaag to Strahleggpass

Now head in an easterly direction over screes and/or snows to the right of the Lauteraarhorn's SW-ridge, until the Strahleggpass is reached at 3332 m (4-6hrs from the Schreckhornhütte.)

Strahleggpass to the Strahlegghorn

The ridge can easily be gained around 50m right (south) of the Strahleggpass. Follow the ridge with easy climbing to the summit.

Additional information

Departure point

Schreckhornhütte SAC (2530 m)

Waypoints

Strahleggpass (3332 m)

History: First ascent made by Major-General Blanckley and Felix Otto Schuster with Peter Bauman, Christian Bernet and two further guides on 14th August 1888.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.