South East Ridge with descent to Sustenjoch (col). Stucklistock 3312 m
- PD, 3a
- 4:30–5:30 h, 1220 m
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1220 m
An interesting and varied high-altitude tour which, with its steep snow couloir, enjoyable ridge climbing and alternative descent via a glacier, requires a wide range of mountaineering skills. This tour is recommended to be done in late spring / early summer, before the initial snow couloir starts thinning out. The stated grade of the climbing (3a) refers to a single point on the SE ridge - a traverse directly in front of the summit. The rest is much easier. The descent from Stucklistock leads initially through brittle rock and requires some focus. As a bonus you can take in a second summit, the Gross Griessenhorn (3200 m) during descent to the Sustenjoch. The cool beer at the Voralphütte is still a long rocky road away from there, and will feel well deserved.
From the Voralphütte (2126 m), the blue-and-white marked "Panoramaweg" leads via Hüblen (2462 m) to the lower reaches of the Fleckistock's southwest flank. (culmination point of the "Panoramaweg").
Leave the main path now and continue to climb gently over the grassy slopes of Zenden to the Hangfirn glacier, which you enter above P. 2736. Continue up slope to the foot of the large gully that descends from the gap P. 3164. Climb the gully to this gap and continue in beautiful climbing over the southeast ridge to the summit. The key section, a hand traverse, is short and requires some effort (3a).
With some easy climbing, though on brittle rock, follow the north ridge to gain the saddle between Gross Griessenhorn and Stucklistock. Descending west through the snow gully, you then cross the Tschingelfirn glacier, contouring round to the rocky ridge at P. 2865, which leads to Sustenjoch (2654 m).
From the Sustenjoch (col), a blue-white marked way leads back to the Voralphütte. Due to melting of the Wallenburfirn, this path has become more demanding in recent years. Some of the markings have been displaced by landslides.
- Departure and arrival point
Die Bewertung der Kletterei mit 3a bezieht sich auf eine einzige Stelle am SE-Grat (Hangelquergang direkt vor dem Gipfel). Der Rest ist deutlich leichter.
Übergang vom Sustenpass zur Voralphütte. Beim Abstieg vom Stucklistock benutzt man den blau-weiss markierten Abschnitt vom Sustenjoch zur Voralphütte.
Emil Huber, Carl Seelig and Josef Zgraggen, 17. November 1889
- Neighbor summit
As a gift, the summit of Gross Griessenhorn can easily be reached with a short detour via its south east ridge.