From Cabane de l'A Neuve via the Southeast Flank (Normal route) Tour Noir 3836 m
- PD, 2a
- 4:30–5:30 h, 1101 m
The Passage d'Argentière (north of the Col d'Argentière) can be reached from the Cabane de l'A Neuve over the crevasse covered Glacier de l'A Neuve. Then follow the SE Flank to the summit.
From the Cabane de l'A Neuve (2735 m), cross the crevasse covered Glacier de l'A Neuve to the broad gully below P. 2753.
Below P. 2753: Climb west up the broad gully then cross the glacier diagonally SW to the base of the SE spur. You reach the spur at about 3100 m after negotiating an often difficult bergschrund. Taking the logical line, climb up the easy but loose and quite steep rocks of the spur to the Passage d'Argentière (about 3620 m), 3 hrs.
Now climb the easy rock ridge to the first pointy tower. This can be bypassed to the right or left. You must then climb up into a small gap before a second, larger tower. Here you cross rightwards onto the SE flank, and follow ledges approximately 100 m below the summit (known as the "Vires Javelle"). These are at first horizontal then slightly rising, and are interrupted by small steps. After about 80 m you reach a small rock wall at the foot of a 12 m high chimney. Climb the chimney (grade 2a) and move onto a rib, which is easily followed to a gap between the two summits. Now on the main ridge, you can easily reach the summit of the Tour Noir (3836 m), 1½ hours.
Down the route of ascent.
- Departure point
Emile Javelle, F.F. Turner with Joseph Mooser and François Fournier, 3. August 1876 (at the time this party reached the Col d'Argentière via the E flank).