From the East - to the West Summit | Alpinism

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- From the East - to the West Summit
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From the East - to the West Summit

From the East - to the West Summit (Normal route) Witenwasserenstock 3085 m

Difficulty

AD, 3a
Ascent

3–3:30 h, 540 m
Descent

2–2:30 h, 540 m

The traverse to the west summit of the Witenwasserenstock, whose easy to reach eastern summit forms the border between (and boundary of the watersheds of) Uri, Valais and Ticino, offers an intriguing climb. This blocky but relatively straightforward connecting ridge has one particularly steep section along it length. This can be bypassed via a tricky rubble-strewn wall, but the step itself is made secure with a few pitons / bolts and is also easily abseiled. At the far end of the ridge waits one further steep section, but this is soon overcome and you can enjoy the panoramic views of the exposed summit and enter your name the logbook.

Viewed from the East Summit: the route over the summit ridge. (07/2016) © Müller Bruno

The broad Witenwasserenstock viewed from the Rotondohütte. The ascent is from the left (east summit) to the right (west summit). (07/2010) © Bruno Müller

At the beginning of the climb, a slab (piton 3a) © Iwan Schuler

View towards the summit pin, which is climbed on the south side (left, bolts 3a). © Iwan Schuler

Summit tower of Witenwasserenstock. (07/2016) © Bruno Müller

Easy and very beautiful ridge climbing to the summit needle of the Witenwasserenstock. © Iwan Schuler

Route description

Witenwasserengletscher - Witenwasserenstocks East Summit

From the Rotondohütte - first descending to the glacier lake - follow the newly constructed alpine hiking trail to the Hüenerstock, then to the east summit of the Witenwasserenstock.

Variant: Witenwasserengletscher

Only recommended when the firn is good: From the Rotondo hut (2570 m), follow the path over the moraine towards the Witenwasseren glacier up to P. 2608. Leave the moraine and head out onto the Witenwasseren glacier. Steadily climb south along the glacier, arcing southeast towards the top to gain the rocky ridge west of the Hüenerstock. Follow this easily to access the eastern summit.

From the East - to the West Summit of the Witenwasserenstock

Follows the ridge first to the saddle between the two peaks to reach a striking steep wall. This is made safe by a number of bolts and climbs at around 3a. It can also be bypassed on the north side via a steep snow - or tricky boulder strewn slope, but the direct ascent is more enjoyable. Continue to follow blocky ridge to beneath the prominent summit needle, which can be climbed on the south side (also 3a).